Can I add cherry stone to 511 to help with drainage.
Patti Chicago Zone 5b/6a
11 months ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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Garden Drainage Help Needed
Comments (3)Loam is not a soil type that would be dense mostly because it is about 45 percent Sand, 25 percent Silt, 25 percent Clay, and maybe 5 percent organic matter. So you need to determine what type of soil you do have. Clay soils tend to hold too much moisture because the very small soil particles do not allow the moisture to flow easily. Adding sand or stone for drainage may be too costly. Perhaps these simple soil tests mightbe of some help. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See MoreCan I use the 5:1:1 mix for plumeria?
Comments (22)Lynn, I used a moisture meter years ago when they first came out, it was ok, used it more for my Anthuriums and greenhouse plants, but general if its hot in your area (over 85) with humidity under 50 percent, if the top of the soil looks dry and you havent watered for a week generally you might want to water. Even for 20 and 40gallon pots, if your plumies well established (been in the same pot for 2 seasons or more) it will need the water after a week. Places where you have really humid summers or in general, depending on your soil/mix and root ball, because of the moisture in the air your soil may not dry out as readily. I have my plants during July on watered at least 2x a week, if I don't the leaves start to wilt along with the flowers and sometimes buds drop also. So as long as your plumies feet aka roots are not wet (poor draining soil), moist soil is ok especially as we do not get super humid in So cal as a general rule. Some plumies like Dwarf Sing Pink, ACW, Mela Pa Bowman, Slaughters Pink, Gina, Steopetala, Hong Kong, Samoan Fluff, etc, etc, like more moisture as they are heavier drinkers. I know that some long time plumie growers in the IE, like Sonia who water more then 2x a week sometimes as it is very arid and over 90's most summer days. So if you want the moisture meter aka gardening accessory than knock yourself out, plus the moisture meters do not work well on 30gal, 40gal pots as it not long enough to reach down to where it counts... This post was edited by freak4plumeria on Sun, Jun 23, 13 at 20:34...See MoreWhat can I add to cactus mix to help it dry out faster?
Comments (14)You know, just a side thought for those of us living up here in the north.. Years ago when our parents and grandparents were using MG mix and other bagged stuff, they basically grew native houseplants that they rarely if ever put outside for the whole summer.NO root rot, no knats... Therefore, they had complete control over watering for these plants. Most houseplants, native to our area if you call them, were only kept indoors. In this case, Mg might work for some. This acoording to my mother.lol Now a days, look at how many of us grow plants not native to our areas, especially tropical,such as plumies, citrus, gardenias, and ect..., that we must put outdoors at the mercie of the weather elments. They thrive there after a long winter indoors.. Now they are also at our mercy to provide the right type of soiless mix to compliment the extremes in weather, especially ours which can be long cool and rainy days, even in summer. NOW, MG is not a good compliment to our now outdoors plants that must do not like constant wet feet. If we insist on keeping them outdoors all summer, we must then think of soiless mixes that allow these poor babies to be rained on consistanly, and even dry out without killing them. If I have anything in MG, it is plants kept indoors such as pothos, peace lilies, spiderplants,preyer plants, and so on. You know the kind I mean.. These never go outside. I keep all plain ole native ones inside while all my non native ones go outdoors, ones that you typical grow in the deep south..These non-native ones are never in MG..No way Hose.... Please, take a gander to the container forum, and you will learn of mixes that allow you to make the best of the outdoors,without scarificing your plants vitality and then eventual death. MG is no longer the choice for most of us, unless you are planning on sticking with just the plain ole indoor houseplant able to even take wet feet...:-) Al's mixes are perfect for plumies... Who of us likes to be bored with with regular houseplants anymore, you know, the ones I mean..lol Mike:-)...See MoreOops.. I mixed turface in my 5-1-1, help!!
Comments (19)Hi everyone! I just thought I'd resurrect this thread as I am playing with some very similar ideas at the moment. I'd love to hear how some of these recipes have worked for people over the years. I'm particularly interested in how the 5:2 mix of bark and turface worked for everyone. I have been growing in the 511 and gritty mixes for 2 years and am constantly tweaking the recipes to suit my conditions, and also because I absolutely love experimenting. So here's where I'm at: I have noticed that watering my plants in the gritty mix is VERY easy; in less than 15 seconds, the entire root ball is wet. While this does need to happen more often than my plants in 511, the actual watering process is very simple and quick. Also, when I go away from home for any length of time, I can simply tell my gf to water on a schedule. There is no guesswork involved for plants in gritty mix. For my plants in 511, I often need to soak them for some length of time, or use both top and bottom watering methods to fully saturate the soil. This is very tedious and time-consuming. Since I am now in quarantine, (along with the rest of the planet), I recently removed all of the dust (smaller than 1/8") from the bark I have on hand and I'm itching to throw some turface into my next batch of 511. I was planning to use: 5 parts bark (no dust) 1 part turface 1 part lava I don't like perlite because it just floats to the top. I have no problem with the weight of lava. Now I am wondering, should I just use 5 parts bark and 2 parts turface instead? Or maybe the "classic" 511 recipe will be easier to water now that I have removed the dust? I'll likely make a small batch with turface and lava today to use on a single plant, but I really hope to hear from some of you! Gardening is making this whole ordeal bearable. I hope you all are well. Cheers!...See MorePatti Chicago Zone 5b/6a
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agoPatti Chicago Zone 5b/6a thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)Patti Chicago Zone 5b/6a
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 months agoPatti Chicago Zone 5b/6a thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)Patti Chicago Zone 5b/6a
11 months agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
10 months agoPatti Chicago Zone 5b/6a thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)marmiegard_z7b
10 months ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)