Thibaut and Bradbury bradbury are going to be what ends up in our home. If you look at the bradbury lines you will see that they are somewhat bold, but continue looking at each color story and you will see the fill patterns many of which I can see in your lovely home. In addition they are period appropriate which IMO is a priority for such a lovely space. Many of the bradbury papers have gold or copper colored leafs on the design. It's very similar to what an old paper would have, though applied differently and the shine they give really makes that old woodwork sing. Be sure to order (and yes you do pay for them) samples and as noted above, go for a simple pattern because they are very expensive and from experience I can tell you that hanging wallpaper with a distinct large pattern is a nightmare in a victorian or older home. Level, Plumb or Square....pick two and hope you picked the right two is our contractors saying. I hung a mural in DH's room and it was HELL! I mean sheer hell to hang. Corners are not square, the ceiling is not level...argh it was awful, but with a smaller pattern would have been so much easier!!!!

I don't like the red-pink either, nor those shades of blue, but your comments do reiterate that it should be the light in the room that dictates the colour, as well as the "density" of it (the light reflecting value) - not just taste. Maria Killam's blog used to be very good about all that stuff (more marketing and fluff now, but I think her old posts are still there). (Whew, that brings us back to the original topic!) As for primer, yes, that was the other thing: it isn't actually primer you want when coverage is your goal, but paint. Primer is for promoting adhesion, and does not provide coverage. I buy mis-tints or use old "oops" purchases for undercoating when I need it - as long as the colour works - and I try to make sure the undercoat I use is reasonably consistent throughout the room. If it has be grey, if you have one small can of a fairly dark grey, you can make almost any paint grey :-) But always, before you take it to scale: test, test, test. Karin L

I like it - except for a couple of small things and none of those are fatal. It's more transitional than modern. When you get around to it, you might finish the tops of the cabinets with molding or stack another layer to lessen the modern look even more. You may need light rail depending on how you plan on doing lights - but it can be added later. Altho its not quite a fad, if you are not height-challenged, you might consider raising the cabinets on the wall another 6-12" and doing the 7-1/4" shelves underneath or a rail system or a combination. So, the things I didn't like - starting with the most insignificant. This is a looks comment, but I think I would choose a more substantial appearing hood. I know its just a picture, because I don't think those come in 36" but its kinda floaty. The PRAKTFULL PRO B50 S is the only 36" wide one and its enough money to start looking around instead of buying ikea. The ref. I would get the side panel for the exposed side - called an oven side panel, if I'm not mistaken. And pull the over the ref cabinet as far forward as possible. That makes it easier to access the first shelf of stuff. Buehl somewhere has a great photo of her over the ref cabinet with a shelf and tray holders. Also, maybe move the filler to the top instead of the bottom. The lower the shelf, the better off you are - the more you can reach without getting out a step stool. The sink. I haz the single. I know that the double sink looks large, but each bowl is fairly small - smaller even than the single farm sink. In both of their farm sinks, the faucet ends up being further back than on normal sinks by a couple of inches - something to consider for choosing the faucet or if you are height challenged. It can chip fairly easily. When combined with a wood counter, you are relying on the caulk seam between the wood and the sink. The problem is that the wood and the sink expand and contract different amounts and sometimes at different times. Our seam opened up and there is mold under the rim. Because we were a permit job, it was installed by a professional plumber. Think about whether you really want this sink at all, want it with a different counter or want it undermounted instead. I would now choose a nice stainless undermount instead. For me personally, the sink is a little close to the corner. At least it's a foot away and that may help, but its a little bit close. When you have multiple cooks and one sink, being able to reach the sink from both sides is really nice. Think about maybe putting the perfect between the corner and the sink. It would lessen the heat the wine would be subjected to trapped between dishwasher and ref. It would also push the sink a little more away from the corner. The bummer might be if you have interference from door swings between the dw and the ref. Every exposed side of the wall cabinets needs a cover panel. Here is a link that might be useful: More like this hood

Blocking is great for keeping joists in line and needed on large spans, but relying on them as "nailers" for the decking is asking for trouble unless you are willing to use hangers on every block in order to keep them from moving with use of the deck. If you simply nail the blocking, eventually they will settle and the decking will follow the blocks leaving a roller coaster deck surface. I think you would be better to run girders every 4',the girders attached to the planned 2x12's and ledger, and joist opposite/inbetween using hangers attached to the "girts". The girders can be doubled up joist material same size or larger,(2x12's same as your header/ledger).