As said above, it is never too late. Actually it will save you more efforts because you will not have to worry about keeping the rooted cutting alive during the winter.

Starting at the front of the house with all sorts of light conditions, here's my 6 largest-all bloom age going around the perimeter of the house. All are in different stages of leafing and blooming. Full Shade-Miami Rose (Cliff) Full Shade NOID Pink w/orange Center (Helen) Afternoon Sun Aztek Gold (Linda Leaf) All Day Full Sun Aztek Gold (Lady) All Day Full Sun NOID Wine Full Sun Morning NOID Wine

I usually root Hydrangea cuttings in Sept., so they will develop some roots before the first freeze. All are outdoors, in pots under evergreen shrubs. Some propagators "tent" the pots with clear plastic bags. I've tried it both ways and found no advantage to using the bags for conserving moisture. You just need to pay attention, so that they don't dry out or become overwatered. Be sure to use a well drained soiless mixture. I use a peat based potting mix (10%) and equal amounts of perlite & coarse (builders) sand. You will need to check the drainage holes in the pots periodically to insure that they don't become clogged! I once lost about 15 rooted cuttings of a rare blue lacecap sport, when that happened over the winter and the roots decayed. Your unheated GH should be fine. If an early freeze is forecasted, you could cover them with an old blanket, straw, leaves, conifer needles or any other insulating material, which should be removed on warm, sunny days. Roots should begin forming within 6-8 weeks. I leave them in the rooting medium overwinter and pot/plant the rooted cuttings in the spring, after new foliage appears. I have successfully rooted hardwood cuttings, by layering them in raised beds, with well drained soil and covering them with a couple of inches of soil and 6-8 inches of leaves, pine needles or both. Once they develop new stems and foliage, detach them from the old stem and pot/plant them where desired. I just purchased 3 new Hydrangeas and once home, I considered removing some of the new growth stems and rooting them. But after doing a search for more information, I found that all are Patented or PPAF, which after close inspection, I found disclosed in very small print on the nursery tags, which I had overlooked! Bummer!

Hey everyone I live in Ontario Canada and I fall in hardiness zone 5. What I'm wondering is how do I get my plumeria cutting to grow ? I have it in a cactus mix in an 6-8 inch pot. What I'm finding is I have small leaves starting approx 1 inch long but fiND the plant sort of stalled there. What is the hottest it should be before moving to shade ? I have been told too use high phosphorus fertilizer and water once every 2 weeks. Does it require a lot of sun or humidity ? would you guys mind giving me some pointers please My email address is maverick2003357@yahoo.com