Citrus with ripe fruits are sold all the time in fairly small (3-gallon or less) pots, but they are regularly fertilized and never allowed to get cold overnight. I suppose those sold up here are mainly intended as house plants. The from-seed should not be an issue as long as the plant is otherwise happy. A calamondin would bloom at a younger age and be more forgiving of conditions, but the fruit does not appeal to everyone.

Yes you should. Your lemon will be a nice pretty foliage tree but if you want fruit you will probably never get it. Harris in flordia and Briteleaf in flordia have dwarf and full size so be sure it's a dwarf your buying. four winds only has dwarf but their rootstock is slightly less desirable. They do have very fancy tags that I really like. Most of mine are from four winds. If you do get another lemon consider the Mediterranean ones also. I wish I would have got a Santa Teresa instead of a Lisbon. But it was one of 4 in my first order.

Christina, those other leaves look mighty fine and dark green. You must of been doing something right all year. Many times citrus will drop leaves, turn color or even get attacked by pests this time of the year. The cold comes into play. A lot less direct over head sunlight like summer and watering has to be pulled back dependent on the temps.. That leaf looks like it just naturally fell off.....Mike When you sprayed with Neem, did you spray under the leaves too? Looks like you did the tops but not the bottom..

Miracle Grow Moisture Control, like all "moisture control" potting mixes, are a disaster waiting to happen. They are terrible for most house plants and especially terrible for epiphytes and semi-epiphytic plants like ficuses. Read Tapla's Growing Ficus Trees in Containers post before you do anything, keeping in mind that you're about to do a major repot to save the tree. You need to do repot into 5-1-1 or equal parts reptibark, perlite, and good quality (non-MG) potting mix. Use a garden hose to get down to the bare roots and use pruning shears to cut any roots with visible rot (black marks). Clean your shears with an alcohol soaked cotton ball afterward so you don't transfer the pathogen to other plants. You're probably going to lose more leaves. There are some good posts on how to prune. Cutting the leaves in half so that you're left with an arrowhead shaped leaf decreases the strain on the roots while still allowing the leaf to photosynthesize. If you could tell us generally where you are, that would help in terms of climate & strength of the sun. I'm in south Texas, which is its own special set of growing conditions. If you're in higher northern latitudes, this is not the best time of year for this...but your root rot situation looks dire enough to risk it. To save the tree, you really need to get it out of the moisture control sludge and into a fast-draining, bark and perlite based mix ASAP. Again, before you start, take the time to read up on Ficus Trees in Containers, paying attention to what epiphytic plants need to survive and hopefully thrive. Then you'll know what you need to do to provide the right light, potting mix, and water for your tree. (The Growing Ficus in Containers posts will also tell you when to fertilize. This is super important so that you don't burn the roots.) In the future, water by skewer/chopstick, not calendar. Push the skewer all the way to the bottom. When the it comes out dry, water thoroughly. Good luck.