Do sansevieria usually need to be staked?
newhostalady Z6 ON, Canada
last year
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newhostalady Z6 ON, Canada
last yearRelated Discussions
Do HTs 'normally' need staking?
Comments (11)Redsox, If your soil is naturally acid like most of the south and east, I would add a few inches of amendments and mulch each spring to encourage your HT's to develop their own roots. I don't think they will reach their full potential with Dr. Huey doing all the work. As your plants mature, cutting them back to 18" will not slow them down at all. Here, it seems to encourage them. My roses have become extremely vigorous and hardy with these methods. The hardest part may be those first few years when the rose seems to be sulking and its difficult to decide to act or let it develop roots on its own. There seems to be a time that the rose "decides" to grow up. I have absolutely no skills in determining the science in this schedule. But, sooner or later, the rose gets hardier, less disease prone, produces more blooms and grows stronger canes that don't flop....See MoreSickly Sansevieria Needs Help!
Comments (8)Actually, your poor plant will be fine! These are the marks that cold weather or just poor care inflict on these plants. They can look quite beat up, and near death. As long as the leaves have no wrinkling and are standing upright on their own, all you need to do is start good care. This plant actually falls between the classifications of houseplant and succulent (stores water in thick leaves). Because of its almost succulent habits it really needs water about half as much as your other houseplants, especially if potted in a large pot. A smaller pot with several leaves in it can be watered on a regular houseplant schedule of once a week or so. Water well, and dump any water left in the catch pan. They do best when given the highest amount of light you can, but will tolerate a dingy, back from the window corner for years. You will not see new growth with too low of light and that will prevent your new plant from coming out of its spoiled looks. These plants can grow in full sun also, but bleach out, and tend to end up looking much like the guy you just rescued. They prefer to be indoors and somewhat protected, if for no other reason than to keep them looking as pretty as possible for our tastes! Try to maintain the teeny, tiny, spikey tip that most Sans leaves have. If broken or damaged, that leaf will stop growing at the size it is at when damaged. If the leaf tips are left, the leaf will continue to grow I don't know HOW tall. I started snapping mine off when they were at the level of my roll top desk while sitting on the floor. I know that these leaves crept another inch or so. This explains all the various heights of leaves you find in a full pot. You can pop over to the Sans Gallery, where we post pictures of our plants. There is a post about a New S. trifaciate "Laurentii" that I purchased recently. You can see from looking at some of the pictures, it really was beat up. And some of the growth heads only had one leaf left after the centers had rotted out. There is a LOT of hope for your new plant. After it has adjusted to your environment and care, you can start feeding it with a tablespoon of Epsom Salts to a gallon of water every so often when you water. All your houseplants can use this, and it might even cause some growth spurts. Welcome to the GardenWeb, it's addicting if you like plants at all!...See MoreDo You Need To Stake Tomatoes Grown in Cages?
Comments (12)"Or can you put your containers somewheres other than on concrete?" No, unfortunately. I live in a HOA on a golf course and they have to be hidden in a courtyard. They don't even like that I start the seedlings out back on the golf course side, but by the time they write me a letter, I have already moved them to the courtyard, lol! "Surely you aren't the only one growing tomatoes where you live. What has been most successful for a Fall crop where you live when you talk to other tomato growers near you?" Actually, all the people I know live in HOAs and no one is allowed to grow vegetables in their yards. I get away with it because of the courtyard but that means growing on concrete. Another neighbor of mine gets away with it because the back of his house is separated from the golf course by a lake and he hides his tomatoes behind a tree. They don't get a whole lot of sun, but he is able to grow some decent Better Boys. He uses stakes. "I'm just trying to get a clearer picture of what your options are." My only other option is to grow them at a relative's house where the HOA is more lenient and her neighbors don't complain. But she is 20 minutes away by car with no traffic and in season with the traffic more like 35 minutes. She is hardly ever home so I would have to drive up and back to water them and nag her to death to do it when I can't. No tomato is worth that to me!...See MoreSansevieria - Need Advice
Comments (12)Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See MoreTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
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