Hello, everyone! Can anyone help me with Sansevieria ID?
Maria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
5 months ago
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Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
4 months agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6Related Discussions
Hello, can anyone help with an ID?
Comments (16)I am pretty well convinced that it is The President, although several look a lot like it. I took a closer look at the center and it is more white than yellow and although the tips looked purple, even in person, looking very closely they are a very dark red. The flower color varies quite a bit in intesity. The larger/older ones are lighter and the smaller/newer ones are a distincly deeper purple. There are faint white "stripes" on the large petals towards the middle. I am not sure if the color fades over time or from exposure to the sun, or if the difference in shades is only related to the size of a particular bloom. There is no pink on any of the flowers. My biggest remaining question is how you all seemed to know it was a variety requiring light pruning without knowing for sure which one it was. My other remaining question is if there is any way to encourage fullness. I want one of those clematis that bloom from the ground to top of the mailbox and envelopes the entire mailbox, like others I have seen. Thank you to everyone who looked, took time to reply and spent thier time trying to identify this for me. I appreciate what a generous gift your time is, especially when you give it to a stranger. You are all the best! Sue...See MoreHello everyone, really need help with this
Comments (14)Whoa! I've never seen such a bad case of powdery Mildew! I was literally in shock to realize it was actually a squash plant and not some velvety kind of holiday decoration or something lol... Powdery Mildew is just a fungus and it's not toxic at all. I would suggest rinsing it all off the fruit before eating it though... the plant is pushing out fruit because it's dying and trying to create seeds (inside the fruit) to survive. The mildew will creep down the stems of the leaves and kill the plant, and being so early in the year still, the death of the plant will happen before the frost comes around. Not sure where you are, it would be a good idea to edit your name and toss in your zone so advice can be more specific, especially for the spring and fall when the weather changes. The plant on the left is about to be over taken by the mildew, my advice would be cut out the plant on the right immediately and toss it in the garbage (NOT IN THE COMPOST) because fungus just creeps along and spraying the plant on the left while leaving contact with the one on the right is really counter productive. The plant on the left is still salvageable. Go to the garden and get a "natural" spray... I used one with sulfur as the active ingredient and it worked well. It doesn't so much kill the existing mildew, but prevents it from spreading, so you spray the healthy leaves. Cut off the infected leaves at the base of the plant, be careful not to hurt the main core stem of the plant. Harvest all the fruit from the plant you can to give the plant the energy to push out more healthy leaves, faster and with less stress. Your plants are in the shade and against a wall, and very thick and healthy. That's wonderful until moisture gets trapped in the soil and creates humidity around/under the plant and doesn't get a chance to evaporate so the plant can remain dry, in which case you get powdery mildew. You need to thin out the leaves of the plants... this will not hurt the plant, just thin it out with the largest leaves, leave as many adolescent, healthy leaves as possible. The spaces between the leaves will encourage airflow and help keep away powdery mildew. Also be mindful not to over water on cooler days. You may also want to spray the wall with your mildew treatment, as it may be sitting happily on the moist beautiful wall after you water the plant, encouraging spreading from plant to plant. Take care!...See MoreCan anyone help me ID my first Tillandsia?
Comments (11)I know what you mean about the growth. They do change how green and fuzzy they are based on how much water they are getting. I have not yet learned how to tell if it needs more water. I have heard about using orchid fertilizer on bromiliads with roots and soil. They have similar wild growing conditions from what I understand. I have no idea if it would work on tillandsias though. The amounts and ratios might be wrong. If it is good to use ( I don't know if it is) I would suggest that you try even less then half strength, just to be safe. I use some Tillandsias fertilizer that I got on Amazon. I am not an expert on Tillandsias and am still learning with my own. If some one knows better than me please chime in. L.G....See MoreHello! Can you help me ID this squiggly worm in my potted plant :(
Comments (36)Just to clarify, I only placed them in my larger outdoor pots while I was outside. Somehow, they found their own way into my smaller- & medium-sized pots all on their own. Which happened while my plants were outdoors. I didn't even know that they were there until I went to soak my pots. And even then, there were only a few of them. All of which were a fraction of the size of the outdoor earthworms. No bigger than the ones in iamhopscotch's photos. They have been there for at least two years now and not once have they ever negatively affected the health of any of my plants. So I pretty much leave them alone. I don't use them to aerate my already fast-draining soil. And even if they "break down" the soil, "Earthworms leave behind excrement or castings containing from 5 to 11 times the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium they have ingested." All of which the plants can use.I repot my plants long before the soil gets depleted, and the old soil gets tossed out into the remote corners of my yard, along which whatever's inhabiting it. Even if my new, fresh potting soil were to somehow gain newer earthworms, I wouldn't go out of my way to try and rid them from my pots. People want to try and grow their plants in sterile environments, dousing their plants with fungicides and insecticides, and nature doesn't work like that. I'm not advocating putting earthworms in your indoor pots. I was simply stating that I found them in my indoor plants and never once have I encountered any problems from them being there. Sure, I placed them in my large, outdoor pots. But that was because those pots stay outdoors year-round. The smaller earthworms found their own way into my smaller pots, while those pots were outdoors. People claim that they can't survive living in containers, but the small ones in mine seem to do just fine. Even if they were to die, their remains end up breaking down into enriched nutrients that the plants can use....See MoreMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
4 months agoStush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
4 months agoMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6floraluk2
last monthlast modified: last monthMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked floraluk2Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
last monthMaria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a) thanked Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
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