Dwarf, semi-dwarf or full size for fastest production?
John Hrusovszky
2 years ago
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Have: Plum -Toka Semi Dwarf
Comments (4)I am interested in your plum tree, please check my trade list and let me know if you would be interested in trading. unfortunately, I have a chinese yellow banana pup but right now it is too small to trade. Here is a link that might be useful: my trade list...See MoreRootstock Preference (Dwarf, semi-dwarf, or standard)
Comments (3)Thapranksta: Your question is a bit difficult as most orchards do not plant all their apples on one rootstock. Often they use several different ones based on what was available when they bought the trees, what pruning/spacing system they wanted for that orchard block,ect. Sometimes hardiness is an issue. For example hardy standard rootstocks (antonovka, prunifola, ranetka ect) are necessary in super cold regions such as ND,SD, WY,MT ect. Most other areas abandoned standard rootstocks years ago as they grow too tall to easily prune/spray/pick. Easier with dwf or semi-dwarf rootstocks. Often spur-type or low vigor varieties (Jonathan) need to be on a less dwarfing rootstock or they runt out and never amount to anything. I hate the terms dwarf or semi-dwarf as too generic. Orchards years ago in WI where I live switched to using M7 as semi-dwarf and free-standing, however they pruduce tons of root suckers. Now the hot rootstocks are Bud 9 & Nick 29 but these trees must be staked for the life of the tree. M26 is still used (8'-12' tall trees) but more prone to fireblight and can tip in heavy clay soils. Every rootstock has advantages and disadvantages depending on climate, soil type, low density planting or high density planting (Tall spindle) ect. My 17 tree hobby orchard has apples on M7, MM111, and yes even 4 on a standard rootstock. I vase prune heavily on some for height control. Others seem jsut fine. My site is weird as very low nitrogen levels. I have to fertilize heavily on new trees and even lightly on old ones or the leaf color is poor. I find my apple trees do not grow as tall at my site as other sites I have grown at. Hence my need for more vigorous rootstocks. Nobody can make you a good suggestion unless we know what soil type you have, are you willing to stake each tree permanently or want free standing orchard ect. Can you provide more information? When you do purchase your trees, watch out! Many mail order and almost all retail outlets will either list them as dwf, semi-dwf or no listing at all. Always ask what rootstock they are on. Don't buy if they can't tell you. A Mcintosh on M26 will be quite shorter than one on MM111. You cannot properly space your trees if you have no idea what rootstock they are on. In fact, one mail order place I called had Cortland on two different rootstocks. After the trees were harvested, they are all mixed together since both rootstocks are "semi-dwarf". Big difference though when some were on M7 and others on Bud 118....See MoreDistinguishing a full size from a semi or dwarf?
Comments (3)Does the tag have any other writing on it? We put that info on our trees so the customer always knows. It might read Like this Coxs orange pippin Apple M111 The last word is the rootstock info. Cory...See Moresemi dwarf fuji apple tree
Comments (5)FIW, the highest leaves in my well-watered, mature avocado and cherimoya trees got fried in that freak heat spell. I've never seen that before. .... Sorry about your apple. Al is correct. Chances are that fuji will recover. You may want to ask in the Fruit & Orchard Forum. I think I'd wonder how to tell if the tree has had such a bad set back that its future production will be compromised. Might want to cut your losses and replace the tree. Here is a link that might be useful: Fruit & Orchard Forum...See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn Hrusovszky
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoJohn Hrusovszky thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)Granite City Services
2 years ago
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