Wow, it is puzzling. It doesn't look like an ower-watering issue to me, but since we're not coming up with any more likely possibilities, then it is something to consider. This late in the year, it has likely stopped growing, even in Florida temperatures. Pothos tolerates drying out pretty well, so let the top couple of inches dry between waterings. How long have they been in that soil? Did they grow well all summer? If so, they might be a bit pot bound now, which can cause some dry spots in the soil, or some roots to become so restricted that they aren't able to draw enough water. It isn't the best time of year to re-pot, especially if something else is causing the problem, but you should at least check this. Can you pull the entire plant out of the pot with the soil and rootball intact? If so, a photo would help us. Check the root ball and medium for dry or mushy spots, for discolored or necrotic roots, for root parasites, crowding, etc. A few, small disrupted places in the root ball where you dig in to check the condition won't hurt it, even this time of year, and if it's very pot-bound, you can plop the entire thing into a larger pot of soil until the spring when you can do a better job or repotting, detangling, root-trimming, and so on. What parts of the plant are affected the most? Were the oldest/lowest leaves on each stem affected first/worst/most, or is the damage worse on the younger, more tender leaves? Are there any parts of the plants that aren't affected? When was it last fertilized, with what, and how often? (Do not fertilize it now- that's the worst thing one can do to a sick plant if the illness isn't due to fertilizer nutrient deficiency.) It might just be lighting, but the plant in the upper photo appears to have an overall yellowish pallor. That would support Tiffany's hypothesis of too much water. Also, I see a yellow leaf near the base of a stem in the second photo near that little sprig of Acacia or whatever it is that's taken root there. Some yellowing is normal, but check through the lower leaves for more yellowing. Too much water or nitrogen deficiency both tend to affect older/lower leaves first. Evenly yellowing lower leaves is more indicative of too much water or poor drainage, while yellowing that begins at the leaf margins is more often nitrogen deficiency. Other things can cause yellowing though, and that curious staining appearance isn't typical of either issue, so don't fertilize at this point. More photos wouldn't hurt: Entire plant Root ball free from the pot Close-ups of the "stains"

Your irises look great! What I see is a little leaf spot.. Not a lot and not enough to worry about. Just take your clippers and cut back the fans that have the spots if you want to. . Leaf spot lives in the soil.. Hot wet humid conditions is what brings it on.. It will not hurt your irises it will just make them ugly.. The outer leaves also usually brown and die back this time of year as well.. You can treat with a fungicide but its not necessary.

I would disagree that you can't fertilize with organic fertilizers in pots, however if you are going to do so you need to be diligent about how you care for your tree, use a medium that is appropriate for and encourages the growth of microorganisms, and avoid plastic pots. You also have to be careful not to use anything that can damage your microorganisms. When you use organic growing methods in containers you absolutely have to treat your soil as, as much of an organism as your tree, and I would not recommend it to someone starting out with citrus. (I grow my own trees indoors in a huge window exclusively under lights and use organic methods. I get fruit every year and my trees grow very well.) Reading your responses it definitely sounds like you have a few problems: water, light, potential overfertilization. You don't "feed" a tree the way you would feed a pet, fertilizer is not "food" in that way, but should instead be applied as necessary to replace nutrients depleted from your soil. Indoors, your trees won't deplete nutrients as quickly due to the low light and slower growth, so you don't need to fertilize as often or at all. As for watering, as mentioned above you should let the tree dry out between deep waterings and watch that your soil doesn't stay wet for too long. (For example: self watering planters are death for many indoor plants). As for lamps, the kind of grow-bulbs or nice looking growing lamps are not going to provide you enough lumens to grow a tree. You could probably use them for little plants that require low light, but a tree needs more than that. A high powered LED lamp is going to be your best bet for a citrus tree. There are options for ones you can install in your house or you could hide them in some way, but if you want your trees to do well you need a lot more light than a standard grow light. I hope this was helpful, and good luck.

I also live in Southern California. I bought these two fruitless olives at the same time 4-5mo ago, but the one on the right is turning yellow. Both are still in their original pots and drain into the decorative pots that also drain and are not waterlogged. I don't water them differently but the green one on the left gets slightly more shade. Should I repot? Feed? Please tell me what I need to do. Thanks in advance.