begonias for beginners
nicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years ago
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nicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Pinching Back Dragon Wing Begonia
Comments (7)Izhar, you may have something there because I understand that even the most shade loving plants need a few hours direct sunlight. I had a feeling the spot chosen may pose a problem. I needed a planting for a sheltered spot and I thought I might have some success with this begonia. I wouldn't be able to move her to find out if this idea is correct since my space is limited. I guess I had a feeling about it initially, and that's probably why I thought about pinching back as soon as I planted. Ken I am careful not to over water every 7 to 10 days and I like to use Dyna gro Grow 7 9 5 for all my plants and orchids; it makes things easier and more affordable not to have to use different fertilizers. I have added superthrive only to one watering. What I am going to stop doing is misting with a very dilute solution of fert water. I have 2 spray bottles (plain and fert) and I mist on occasion to perk up some of my plants. If it is a fert issue as you say, maybe she will show some progress if I just use the plain bottle. Additionally, I will reduce fertilizer to once a month. I hadn't thought about the cut backs; thanks for suggesting, I will definitely try to root a couple....See MoreBest brand of potting mix? Also, easiest varieties of begonias?
Comments (144)Just last night I finished writing a piece about why you can't amend a water-retentive medium with coarse material. I wrote it specifically as a rejoinder to the very often repeated advice that adding 1 part of perlite to one or 2 parts of water-retentive medium will somehow yield a 'good' medium. I plan on posting it as a thread because it's important for growers to understand that a half measure won't necessarily improve your lot by half. Punked by Perlite? In any forum that is even marginally related to container growing, you'll find the oft repeated advice that you can make a silk purse from a sow's ear by adding together equal measures of an overly water-retentive potting media and perlite. Many growers erroneously believe that you can start with a medium comprised of fine particulates and miraculously make it better by adding perlite. You can't ..... and I'll explain why. Let our starting point be any soil you're so uncomfortable with you feel it needs 'amending' to increase aeration and drainage. Store shelves from coast to coast offer up hundreds of examples, and fora are full of threads that offer suggestions re how to fix them. If there's a standardize version of the advice, it would have to be, “Mix 1 or 2 parts of it [and it rarely seems to matter what 'it' is] with 1 part of perlite and all will be well; but …… will it? Let's look closer. The answer is – the suggested mixture will not perform any where near as well as you might intuit. Just how is perlite supposed increase aeration when it has no internal porosity? By what miracle does a nonporous particle added to a water-retentive container medium, or a bowl of oatmeal for that matter, increase air porosity? Let's say that you have a gallon of Miracle-Gro potting media - the stuff with the moisture control feature, and to it you add a gallon of perlite. Adding perlite is pretty much the same as adding BBs or marbles. If you screened the fines out of the perlite, you end up with 2 gallons of medium, twice the volume; however the double volume ONLY comes with the amount of aeration that was in the gallon of medium that so needed fixing. We sure didn't get any aeration from the perlite. There is no way to deny that with twice the volume of medium and no more than the volume of air already contained in the original gallon you've actually reduced the per volume total air porosity by 50%; AND, the more perlite you add, the worse it gets. Total porosity continues to diminish as you add perlite until you reach a threshold level of coarse material that occurs at the point where there is no longer enough of the original fine material in the newly created medium to fill all the spaces between the large particles of perlite. That will not occur in most practical applications until the fraction of large perlite particles is in the 75-90% range. If your medium consists of 75-90% perlite, it would be misleading to suggest that you're growing in medium X amended with perlite, when you're growing in perlite amended with medium X. We don't take coffee with our sugar or cream, we take sugar or cream with our coffee. In essence, when you begin with a poor medium based on fine particulates, and start adding coarse material like pine bark, perlite, pumice ....... it gets much worse (from the plant's POV) before it starts to get better. If you add an insufficient volume of coarse material – it stays worse. Perlite's primary benefit lies in the fact that it occupies space that might otherwise be filled with saturated medium. Simply put, media comprised of fine particles with perlite added will hold less water on a per volume basis than the same media without perlite, but the aeration level in the fraction of the medium available for root colonization will be roughly the same with or without perlite. Visualize adding a pint of perlite to a pint of sand, then ask yourself whether or not the perlite helped by adding aeration. The answer is a resounding NO. Did it help with drainage? Only to the degree it decreased the amount of water the medium can hold on a per volume basis, but this is something of a hollow victory. More on that in a subsequent paragraph. If we want to take advantage of what well-aerated media have to offer, we need to understand how to EFFECTIVELY use the materials at our disposal. If you have on hand pine bark in an appropriated size, perlite, and sphagnum peat, you can mix them in such a way that the end result is a highly productive medium for container culture; or, the same ingredients can be combined in ways that render them practically unusable. Growers would be much better served to use water-retentive media like as it is from the bag, in combination with the well-reasoned use of ballast in the bottom of the pot than to make a wreck of their medium by adding an insufficient amount of perlite or other coarse materials. The science applies to total porosity and air porosity at container capacity. When using perlite as an 'amendment' to water retentive media, it would also be better to determine the height of the PWT the soil supports (easy peasy), then mix 4 parts of perlite with 1 part of the medium, and fill the bottom of the pot with that mix to the ht of the PWT. Then top it off with the water-retentive mix - unamended. This would be much more effective than amending the entire volume of medium in the pot with perlite. Remember - perlite's job is to take up space, and the space it occupies cannot be colonized with roots. This is the 'hollow victory' I mentioned in a preceding paragraph. While perlite takes up space that might otherwise be full of saturated soil, and in that reduces the volume of water the soil can hold, it also reduces the volume of soil available for root colonization. Space available to roots to grow is still filled with fine particles, which still hold roughly the same amounts of water they did before the perlite was added. Many things can be used to significant benefit if used judiciously, most of those things can put us at a disadvantage if used capriciously. Understanding the role of perlite, and other ingredients that serve as potential additions to container media are steps toward getting to the point where we're far more likely to be limited by things like climate, light levels, and humidity …… than our own skills. Al...See MoreRepoting Begonia Partita
Comments (0)Hello, I've had a Begonia Partita tree for now about 10 months. My Begonia Partita started loosing its foliage on October. I have brought it inside (it was on the balcony) but it continued loosing branching through November and December. I came on this site to get advice and through a previous post I have been directed to http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg101400289284.html?50 After reading the full article I feed my plant might have some issues related to roots and soil as so I want to repot it. Because I'm totally new to this, I need some advice. I have a set of questions I'll ask. Size of pot: Currently the plant height is 12 inches (from base to top branch) and the pot is 8 inch wide (full width of circle) and 4.5 inch deep from soil to bottom. Is that not enough ? Soil: My plant is from originally from South Africa according to this site: http://www.bihrmann.com/CAUDICIFORMS/subs/beg-par-sub.asp Is there a specific soil I should get ? Can I modify a soil by adding little stones etc (I now understand, that the more the soil has air in it the best). The soil its currently in is (see picture). When I repot, should I apply a fertilizer directly ? Am I ok to use an all purpose synthetic fertilizer (according to the "Good Growing Practises - An Overview for Beginners" is fine. When I repot I need to cut roots that are: dead, growing back towards centre or root mass, encircling, J-hooked roots and damage roots. Should I cut those the closest to the root mass ? My plant now has a sprout that came out from the side base as seen here https://imageshack.com/i/npon3yj Should I cut that off ? Is there anything else I should take into consideration ? Thank you ! Here is a link that might be useful: Image of Begonia Partita...See Morebeginner Begonia enthusiast
Comments (9)Not sure about NY, but in WA we see tuberous begonias for sale (full price) in about May, and discounted by early July. Re planting in ground: tuberous begonias are way too tender to overwinter in states north of about SC. Just dig up the tubers after the first *light* frost, or when the leaves start to drop and drop off the tuber. You can also pull them up when things start to get chilly, then lay them on newspaper until their leaves/branches fall off (they get a little energy from the branches). Then store in a cool, dark place in a paper bag, and mist from time to time, until they start budding (around mid-Feb). I've tried to overwinter them in pots, but they just do exactly the same leaf/branch drop, and you still have to dig them up and store the tubers. Then, plant them in pots till late April when they've leaved out a bit. When the weather is predictably above 50 at night, transfer the plants to the ground. I *love* tuberous begonias - they're gorgeous, and surprisingly forgiving and pest-resistant, and the deer don't touch them....See Morenicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agohc mcdole
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agohc mcdole
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agohc mcdole
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
6 years agonicholsworth Z6 Indianapolis
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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