water bath canning pan problem!
casi
10 years ago
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myfamilysfarm
10 years agoLinda_Lou
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Attic Air Handler Dripping Water into Emergency Pan
Comments (5)I want to thank everyone for their help and very good input. My awesome HVAC team put in an EZ Trap hooked up to kill the unit if the trap fails and a regular trap on the secondary. Since then the pan was dry but now a month after the install, there is a little water in the pan. I think it's from condensation with water dripping off the unit where the blower pumps the air into the main ducts. When I feel under there, I can feel droplets of water and these seem to be slowly dripping into the pan. The pan only has a 2 mm of water in it. This is the maximum amount of water in the pan and always in the same place and I've been checking every 4 hours.Is this a small amount of condensation dripping a big deal or something to be expected with an attic HVAC install? Is there anything I can do about it? Is there anything wrong with my unit? Please see photos below. Here is a link that might be useful: Small Amount of Water in Pan after traps installed...See MoreDrain pans - good for home, bad for water heater?
Comments (15)Previously I stated that a water heater TPRV(Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve) may not discharge into a drip pan and Funycide argued that the IPC(International Plumbing Code) will allow us to discharge the TPRV directly onto the floor. While that may seem like a contradiction in fact all three national plumbing codes, IPC, IRC & UPC will allow us to discharge a water heater TPRV directly on the floor, subject to some very specific conditions. If a water heater is installed in an attic, over a wood floor or over any floor that might be damaged by discharging water the TPRV valve is required to be piped to an approved indirect waste receptor. The approved indirect waste receptor may be a line extending outside the building or it may be a line discharging into a utility sink or floor drain. If the line is extended to a utility sink or floor drain the lowest portion of the discharge line must remain a minimum of 2" above the flood level rim of the sink or floor drain. If the line is extended outside the structure the discharge end of the line must terminate vertically downward. Under the IPC & IRC the discharge end must be within 6" above grade at the point of discharge. Under the UPC it may be within 6"-24" above grade. If a water heater is installed in an unfinished basement or crawl space the TPRV may discharge on the floor providing the basement or crawlspace is equipped with a floor drain or sump pump receptor. In instances where the water heater is installed in a basement or crawlspace below grade and where there is no floor drain or sump pump receptor the TPRC is to be removed and a WATTS 210 gas shutoff installed in its place. A pressure relief valve is to then be installed on the hot water distribution system at any convenient point above grade where the pressure relief valve can be discharged into an approved waste receptor. The diameter of the TPRV discharge line MUST remain equal to the diameter of the TPRV discharge outlet. Under no circumstance may the line be downsized. There must be a continuous ¼" per foot pitch for all horizontal piping in a TPRV discharge line. There may be no traps or valves on the TPRV discharge line and there may be no treads or fittings attached to the discharge end of the line. When a TPRV discharge line is terminated outside the structure it must be in a position of plain view and MAY NOT be obstructed by shrubbery or other landscaping materials. In instance where a drip pan is also required, the drip pan and TPRV must have separate dedicated drain lines. Under no circumstances may the drip pan and TPRV be combined on the same line....See MoreCan an on-demand hot water heater solve my problem?
Comments (21)"I've considered the systems that use the cold water line as a return. There are some concerns about mixing hot water in the cold water lines, since it is not recommended to drink water from the hot side". The amount of water from the hot side pumped into the cold side is diluted and therefore not the same as drinking hot water. "The main concern is legionnaires disease, but others worry about the increased solubility of minerals and other compounds". My wife is an ICP and assured me that the anti-bacterials (chlorine or the like) added in the cold water by our water utility continue to work at a temperature a few degrees over its normal temp and that those same anti-bacterials (chlorine or the like) work just as well in the water heater where the temp is considerably higher than the cold water. I would consider a well water system an entirely different environment since the water is not necessarily safe when pumped from the ground. I can see where Chris8796 would make that statement never having experienced the device in question so here are facts not unsubstantiated opinions... The Laing Autocirc and the Watts version retrofit recirc pumps are NSF certified and not prohibited by any code I can find in the US. This link http://lainginc.itt.com/pdf/ACT303Brochure_web.pdf to the Autocirc brochure lists it's certifications. Living with the Autocirc for 7+ years I never find the temp of the water on the cold side of the sink where the pump is installed to be much above the normal temp of the cold water so any increased solubility is not a consideration and note that no other faucet between the far sink with the device and the WH connects hot and cold. " also got a chuckle from their marketing, "the average family of 4 saves 43 gallons of water a day"? A 3/4" copper pipe holds 0.025 gallons per linear foot and a 1/2" copper pipe holds 0.0121 gallons per linear foot, 43 gallons would fill 1720 feet of 3/4" or 3553 feet of 1/2" pipe. Now, thats a long from the water heater, even if you had to use water 10 times a day". With just two people in a 1600 sq ft home we hit a faucet or appliance far more often than ten times a day and factor in the two plus minutes we used to let the hot water run till it was hot and Laing's claims are in the ballpark. Here are the facts in my first hand experience... no opinion, just fact. My water meter ticks over each 1000 gallons. My average water usage was 4000 gallons per month and every 5th month or so it would drop to 3000 gallons on one months bill then back up to 4000 gallons. With the Laing Autocirc installed the monthly bills dropped to 3000 gallons for four months and then one month at 4000 gallons. That savings coupled with the savings in KCl for my softener (less water used, less softening needed, less KCl used), less LP used to heat the water, and having hot water at the kitchen sink in seconds was a win-win all the way around....See MoreKerdi shower pan - drain not centered; is it really a problem?
Comments (8)Thanks Mongo, You've made my night! I was awake until 1:00 this morning, going around in circles in my head planning my tile layout and how to best deal with the drain, so I'm happy this idea is sound. I actually was considering your second suggestion of floating the tiles up a bit to get a better match, but I like your suggestion of feathering out the thinset below the membrane. I have a hard enough time with the thinset squeezing out with mosaics. I don't need to make it even harder on myself. Now that that is figured out, I'm sure I'll find many other things to obsess about in the three weeks until we have time to do this project! Actually, I do have one other question (for now!): the shower will have two full walls and two curbs at right angles. I have two Kerdi curbs (the gray ones that are reinforced inside) and felt fine about those until I saw someone on a forum somewhere worrying about whether those would be able to support their frameless glass walls. We are planning frameless glass walls too, so I started researching that and couldn't find anyone who had actually talked about combining the two. Kerdi says they are strong enough (and I have an email in to the glass dealer to check), but just wondering if anyone has actual experience putting frameless glass walls on the Kerdi curbs? I checked the glass doors/walls we're getting and it looks like most of the support will come from the anchors set into the walls and there aren't any holes that need to be drilled into the curb (the walls rest on silicone shims), so it seems like it should be fine?...See Morereadinglady
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