I presume you are talking about placing the trough bricks adjacent to the house ...? They are are nice for certain applications but you don't really NEED them. If the patio along the house is level, then they will only hold a few drops of water but not run it anywhere. If the patio has pitch away from the house, water that lands next to the house will run away anyway. The trough bricks will only retain a bit of it which will dissipate downward in their seams. If the patio length slopes adjacent to the house the trough bricks would be useful, but not too much since we're under an overhang and there is also pitch away from the wall. Personally, I don't use polymeric sand. While it could be useful in certain applications when carefully applied, I don't create those applications and neither do you have one of them here. Also, p. sand has the potential to create an unattractive film on the surface of otherwise fine pavers. For the most part, I think it is a way to upsell a product. Remember that many decades (centuries) before p. sand arrived on the scene, pavers were installed with satisfactory results. Read some online reviews before you proceed with it.

Thanks everyone. It's an open-air patio, not enclosed. The overhang does have vented soffit :( Also, I've never had a vent hood before. The smells of my cooking are not bad but they do linger, thus the hood. Boxer, what do you mean snake the tube? With a chimney style hood there can be no snaking until you get past the drywall. My problem is that there is a joist in the way. Actually, a ceiling joist, not a roof joist. We are trying to avoid cutting joists. Is there some way of snaking that I'm not aware of that will make a chimney style hood work? I know I can get an undercab hood or an insert and angle it within the cabinetry to avoid the hood. The chimney style would be better for the aesthetics of the plan and let more light into the adjoining room. I'd like to ask him to move the troublesome ceiling joist and reinforce to in order to fit a roof-vent chimney mount style, but that's where the roof slopes to its cramped little end and will be a &(&*^% to do.. I guess we'll see. He does like the chimney style as well, so I'll let him decide if he wants to deal with the joist or not.

It's going to be hard to get the required receptacle(s) in there - I'm not up on latest code, you might need 2 b/c of the size of the island. Used to be no more than 12" below the countertop with no more than 6" overhang. Of course, the higher the receptacle and the less the overhang the safer and more convenient it is to use. No face-up receptacles (I'm not sure how Sill-lites qualify - are they pop-up?) on the countertop. Edit: Sorry, just saw you said 12" overhang on 2 sides. If you can cut the pantry side down to 6" you could put one there. I originally thought you had drawers on that side too but now I can see blue so that's all open. If you don't actually need seating (knee room) there that would be perfect solution, I'd run Plugmold the whole length and you can use that side for buffet serving (though personally I don't like cords hanging over the edge of counter, if they were close and you secured the excess with a rubberband or twist tie it would do. AFAIK, once you have the required receptacle(s) (check if it's 1 or 2 for that size), you may have as many other receptacles as you want in the island. I have 1 (that serves as junction box for my Plugmold) at regular "wall height" on the pony wall that my countertop extends over for seating, I don't use that for small appliances but do find it convenient when vacuuming. This post was edited by ajsmama on Tue, Apr 15, 14 at 9:18

OK Newbie, I figured it out: Exterior wall, staring at garage = 250". First, I'd advise swapping the garage door swing so it swings into the garage, not the dining room. These are base cabs and appliances only. Uppers are easy. 13"wall, 60" Patio doors (5' sliding or French swing OUT), 18" wall, 12" deep hutch, 36" fridge, 9" pull-out (foils), 24" D/W, 30" sink base, 12" cab, 36" wall to basement / back door. 13+60+18+12+36+9+24+30+12+36 = 250. Dining Room = 91" wide next to fridge / dish hutch along it. This narrow portion is only for approx. 36" from back wall (depth of fridge). You will have two sinks, so I put a 30" sink instead, so you have 33" counter between fridge and sink with foil storage next to fridge. 24" is too small if one person is at the sink and another person at the fridge. There is a 13" counter on end of sink. This leaves 36" to the basement doorway, but you now have a better back door in the dining room, so this old doorway won't be used much. Also, the pantry will now end one foot shorter. Note you will have to shift the old sink window over towards the basement a bit if you want the sink centered. -- Range wall / peninsula, starting at corner, doorway to LR closed in. Corner to peninsula overhang edge = 147". This leaves 103" for the dining room AFTER the 15" peninsula with seating. Starting in corner: 36" corner cabinet with Super Susan, 6" pull-out for spices and oils, 30" range, 24" drawer cab, 36" angled corner sink base creating peninsula, 18" cab forming peninsula end. 36+6+30+24+36+15"overhang = 147 -- Peninsula: 36" angled sinkbase, 18" end cab. An angled sink base can hold a larger sink and it is MUCH more comfortable than being in an inside corner. With a 36" deep fridge the aisle between the peninsula end and the fridge is 39". TRY to get a shallower fridge! French Door fridges are NOT made for small kitchens! I'd go with a side-by-side. Still, I think this is the best place for the fridge because people will not bother you when they get a drink. -- Back wall pantry: Starting at corner - the same 36" corner base cab from range wall = 36" along wall with 24" deep counter. Then two 24" wide, 12" deep floor-to-ceiling pantries. In the corner above the Super Susan cab I'd put a 36" high inside corner cab (with two doors or bi-fold doors) mounted at the ceiling. Either a 36"x36 or a 24"w with a 12" to butt the pantries. Below it I'd put a 24" high, 36" long wall cab sitting on the counter facing towards the range as a shallow appliance garage. This will make the pantry appear to cross over the counter and wrap onto the other wall of uppers. If you get the two-door corner upper you can make the door facing towards the dining room glass and the other door wood. Then the cab below and the wall pantries above the counter-line can be glass too, and the ones below the counter-line wood. That would look good and keep the room airy. This gives you 30" of counterspace from the range to the corner and 24"-30" of counterspace between the sink and range. Much more than your current layouts. Also, the drawer base cabs you have now are too small for pots and pans. 15" drawer bases only have 12" drawers, and 15" of counter next to the stove is just not functional. -- The "hutch" next to the fridge should be a 36" high wall cab with a counter above it and a 42" glass wall cab mounted at the ceiling. Mount them to a plywood panel behind and create a backsplash between them. This can be used for dishes. The peninsula can be used as a buffet. Just be sure to use a 39" deep one-level peninsula counter, not a raised bar. This will increase your prep space immensely. -- This layout has the same width dining room as your current layout but includes the 15" deep seating in the kitchen area. I really think you will benefit greatly with the 39" deep peninsula. Plus all the extra prep space around the stove (and extra storage in the Super Susan). The back end near the new patio doors is narrower because of the fridge / hutch, but if you get a narrow dining table with leaves you can leave it smaller most of the time and extend it out through the wide opening into the living room when you have lots of guests. But most of the time a table with 4 chairs and 3 stools at the peninsula will be enough. Now that I think about it, I'd probably use a 15" cab as the peninsula end (not 18") and extend the counter with a 3" lip over it - more foot clearance.