Heat pump camouflage
Lisa Nau
13 days ago
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Comments (11)
sktn77a
13 days agoklem1
13 days agoRelated Discussions
Heat Pump Efficiency/Moving Pump Question
Comments (12)Thanks for the input. The builders were cheap. There were a number of problems we discovered after moving in. Most of it is detail stuff, but they cut corners where ever they could. It's a 4 story building. We own the bottom two floors, and our neighbors own the top 2. We have insulation in most of the exposed walls, but that's it. There's no insulation separating our unit from the neighbors, and I'm not sure there is insulation on top of the building the way a usual home would have in the attack because of the roof top deck. Not only this year, but the past two years their power bills in the winter are SEVERAL hundred dollars per month. Ours aren't quite that bad, but that's because we keep it as cold as an ice box and they're still higher than anything my friends in the area pay for similar square footage. Also, we can hear everything in the building. It's like the neighbors are in the next room. I've lived in multi-unit buildings before, but this one is the least sound proof of them all. I can only assume it's because there is no insulation in the interior walls and our ceiling. I don't know what else it could be? I'm admittedly fairly ignorant on building matters, but these power bills are far from normal, and it's senseless that we have to freeze in order not to pay $500+/mo for power in the winter. I don't know what else it could be if not the heat pump/insulation. Thanks....See MoreAux heat source to be stage1 heat and heat pump stage2.
Comments (3)Your friend's work around with the thermal switch sounds as if it was in lieu of a third stage on your thermostat. Honeywell makes a three stage thermostat (3 heat - 2 cool) The TH8110U that would do that for you. And there are others. A bit of an expense though, considering that what you have essentially accomplishes the same thing....See MoreBroken Heat Pump Liquid Return Line, Repair or Replace Heat Pump
Comments (2)I would (at least) go with flushing the lines out, adding a 2 way liquid drier and a suction drier. pull a micron vacume to 400, lock the system in the A/C mode and run it a week, then replace the liquid drier and remove the suction drier. Was the cut in the aluminum coil? A repair kit for that will be permanent. I don't know what you mean by damage to the "condensor"- that is the outdoor coil section. It is possible the system ran while it was raining (heat mode) and if a lot of moisture is suspected, checking the oil in the compressor would help make the desicion on which course to take. Many american standards have a 10 year warranty on the compressor and coil, so doing the above first would be my choice. If the unit needs replacing because of moisture contamination and it's that bad, the best route may be to replace the whole system for the long haul. Green oil and clumpy oil in the compressor or lines will indicate this extreme moisture contamination and installing filters driers won't work....See MoreComparing Heat from HeatStrips, Gas Furnace & Heat Pump
Comments (4)Post your electric rate in cents per kw-hr, and your gas rate in either $ per ccf or $ per therm. The heat output of a gas furnace is very similar to electric resistance strips if enough kw are used. Utility costs decide which is cheaper. 5 kw electric strips put out air temps about 15F greater than room temperature. So a typical 10kw strip heat puts out 100 degree air if the room temp is 70F (70 + 30 = 100). This# is based on 1200 cfm air flow from the indoor fan. 15kw = 115F which is more in the range of gas furnace temps. The air handler must be sized to handle this heating load. These temps are for the strip heat only and do not include any btu's from the heat pump. The heat pump itself puts out air temps from about 90F to 100F based on outdoor air temps. The 90F supply temp air from the heat pump combined with 20 kw aux electric strips provides minimum 120F output air when needed. Heat pumps provide enough heat up until the balance point, which is around 32F or so based on home construction/insulation (mine is 25F). At temps lower than the balance point, aux heat is needed - either furnace or strips. The good thing with the strips is they can run along with the heat pump. The furnace cannot run when the heat pump is in heating mode; its one or the other. When the heat pump goes into defrost mode, the air output is in the low 50's. 10 kw provides 30F to temper the air into the low 80's so it doesn't feel too cold while the heat pump is defrosting. The furnace will provide 120F air during a defrost cycle. The heat pump is typically 300% efficient down to 35F ambient. Heat pumps make cheap heat. One comment about the XP-19. It's "up to 19 SEER". Not all combinations get 19 SEER. Model numbers can be used to determine actual SEER. Also, dual-compressor systems like the XP-19 are more for hot and humid summers than for heating. In the cooling mode, running on 1st stage saves $$ and reduces humidity. Once on 2nd stage, it loses its operating $$ benefits. A 14/15 SEER usually provides the best combination of purchase price and operating cost. If you can afford a "19 SEER" system, go for it. Whichever SEER you get, you want as close to 12 EER and 9 HSPF as you can get for low operating costs in cooling and heating respectively. Good luck....See Moremike_home
13 days agoPaul F.
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