I would also consider a 2-level approach or something similar that lets you make the transition to ground seem more gradual. There is also the idea that you may find you want to do a good deal of grilling the food outside, then eat inside, because well, it is just so convenient and you can grill under less ideal circumstances than required for outdoor dining. The utilitarian steps down to patio just to get to the grill will be a barrier to that. The problem with same level is that you have to use decking, then it does tend to force you to a large deck, then a large area underneath it plus lattice or whatever, plus maintenance--though new deck materials as you suggest make that less of an issue. So I do not want to discourage you from thinking about having a "stone" patio that is part of the yard. I think over time that area could be very nice and will feel more permanent--properly landscaped. So the deck idea gives a more immediate sense of its being just an extension of your kitchen and feeling like a "room", but the patio has the ability to feel "in the yard", as noted above. The problem with bi-level structures is you have to design carefully so that neither part is too small to be useful or it breaks up your party in the wrong way. So, for example, if you envision 6 guys or gals yakking around the grill, you want room for that in your design. I think the deck landing as shown in your picture has that dreaded ubiquitous tacked-on landing look that just gets you up and down, and if you do actually make just steps, I would try to put more into their design to make a more graceful descent to the yard--whether that is broader, curved, or something. Of course that might be too expensive, so part of the fun of the forum is that we can brainstorm about how you might spend your $$! Really, just giving you things to think about. Broad steps or more gradual transition type structures can also often be used as seating/dining (for kids) as long as is wide enough. You don't show anything about the exposure of the back of the house, sun patterns, etc, so any design needs to think ahead to whether you will plant trees for shade, use umbrellas, arbor, or what--meaning, leave space in yard, or plan layout of space.

It was a lot of pavement for that setting, I can understand the undesirable effects, especially if tree roots lifted some of the pavers. Except for nutritional analysis, your soil testing will be a snap: 1. For pH, check with the local office of your State Cooperative Extension; they usually do a pH test while you wait, free of charge ... and will tell you what and how much to add to adjust if necessary. Soil for turfgrasses should be in the 6.0 (preferably 6.5) to 7.0 range. 2. For soil composition, use the jar test. If you have children, they'd love to help and watch the results. Take a clean, straight-sided jar (mayonnaise, Mason, etc.) and fill about halfway with your soil. Fill almost to the top with water. Add a drop or two of dish washing liquid. Screw on the top securely. Shake to mix thoroughly, then set it down. You will see the sand begin to settle out immediately. Silt will settle next, and may take an hour or so to settle out. Clay will take the longest to settle out, several hours possibly. Organic matter will float or settle out last. You will clearly see the proportions of each component of your soil. 3. As for nutrient analysis, the test kits available in garden centers will give reasonably good results if used correctly. Sending a soil sample off to your extension service soil lab would give you more accurate results, but that can take several weeks for results and probably not necessary in this case. Clay has minerals, but tends to compact, resulting in poor drainage. Sand makes for good drainage, sometimes too good, taking any fertilizer with it, resulting in a nutrient-poor, dry soil. Turfgrasses are not happy in either situation. Organic matter will lighten clay soil to help with drainage and aeration (plants get oxygen through their roots), and will improve the water and nutrient holding capacity of a sandy soil. Turfgrasses need a minimum of 4" good topsoil, preferably more. 8" would be better. The deeper the topsoil, the deeper the roots can grow and the more resilient your grass plants will be. Check to see if the soil in this area is like the soil in the rest of your yard. It is common practice when laying a walk or patio to dig out some soil and replace with gravel and then sand for a good base. If there is a hardpan of compacted clay beneath the sand and gravel, you could have drainage issues. I have no idea what the dilute clear shampoo solution is supposed to do - would love to know if you ever find out. It looks like you are already well into gardening, so probably know the importance of good soil and a healthy, diverse population of soil organisms. Doing the prep correctly now will save time and effort in the long run.

I am researching belgard, unilock and cambridge and I now see Techo-Bloc as the options. I actually will be doing a patio area in front of a brownstone not the steps. I would like to use the best product for wear and tear that will not look worn out after 8-10 years(like my neighbor's currently does). I would appreciate any feedback on which of these companies has the best product. I seem to be initially drawn to the uni-lock "brussels block" but am interested in anyone's experience and advise. Thanks

It's just a local requirement, then! Sorry. For an official egress door, we are held to the 1.5" standard regardless of door swing. Other doors get the one-step allowance, but if you tried that on anything dubbed a front door, your plans get nixed. I had to rework an inswing entrance in a tight space because of that, relocating the step 90 degrees and making a big landing pad. Inspector claimed it was code. Didn't say which, so I assumed it was one of the many changes to stairs/level changes in the IRC. I agreed with the inspector that the change in design was much better and safer, so I didn't try to challenge