Questions About Feeding These To Container Roses
missmary - 6b/Central Maryland
15 days ago
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Artist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
15 days agoRelated Discussions
Heirloom roses question about new roses
Comments (14)Hi - I was away for the day, but will now get back to your question about soaking the bands. Yes, the whole plant is submerged. Ya never know - there may be bugs hitching a ride on the upper leaves as easily as anywhere else on the plant. Some bands are pretty tall, so that's why the 33 gallon trash can - to fully submerge them. Also, I typically get 5 to 10 roses in a shipment, so I need the larger diameter to hold them all. If you only have 3, and they fit side by side in a smaller bucket with the tops of the leaves covered with water, by all means, use that. Fill the bucket first, and then carefully place (not drop) the bands on the bottom so as to dislodge as little soil as possible. You will need to lower them to the bottom slowly, to gently let the air in the soil come bubbling out of the pot. But once fully submerged, they will stay at the bottom just fine without disturbing the root ball. Then, when the time has passed, reverse the process and carefully remove them from the bucket. It's easy, actually (but you have to remember to do it, lol). Kathy...See Morequestion about winterizing my container roses
Comments (8)I leave my containerized roses out over winter and have for years and years. Last year was particularly cold with temperatures down almost to zero for many days in a row. That's very unusual for us. The only rose that was severly damaged enough to pitch was in a small (10")container. My best success with overwintering roses comes when I am able to move the pots to a wind protected site on the west or south side of my home. The radiated heat from the house adds just a few degrees of additional heat. The worst site is an eastern location. The roses are frozen overnight, and as the sun rises in the AM it strikes the frozen canes causing the cells to burst from the rapid warm up. Actually my in ground roses with a more northern exposure fared better during this unusual cold snap last year then did the ones facing east. Also, it is best to stop any fertilizing about 7 to 8 weeks before the average first frost date. Earlier then in ground roses. You want your pot roses to not be adding any new growth after late summer...As for sealing the canes, some people will say it's not necessary, but in my yard it certainly is. We've got the cane "driller" wasps, and if I miss a cane, they seem to be able to spot it right away....See MoreQuestion about containers for roses
Comments (7)Redwillow, a 25" pot is nowhere NEAR sufficient for Excellenz von Schubert. In Southern California, (You are in Solvang, I am in Ventura County) Excellenz von Schubert grows as a lusty climber. I have seen it used to cover a very large arch. I use it on a wide-set tripod, made with 8-ft-tall poles: As for the others, a 25-in pot is probably sufficient for Marie Pavie and Mrs. R.M. Finch for a few years. Eventually, they will run out of space, however, and require either potting up or root pruning. If you are able to plant them in the ground, that would be preferable. Excellenz von Schubert has good disease-resistance in Southern California. It is very sensitive to pH, however. In my alkaline conditions, I must use soil sulphur around this rose, periodically. Marie Pavie should be a trooper for you. Don't prune her hard. She does not take well to that treatment. Mrs. R.M. Finch mildewed uncontrollably here near the Ventura County coast, and is No Longer With Us. Jeri Jennings...See MoreQuestion on Feeding Very Old Roses
Comments (10)There are still some unknowns here, such as how well the health of the soil has been looked after over the years, and what the watering routine is like. If the soil hasn't had sufficient quality organic matter added back into it and too many fertilizer salts applied, it's possible that the texture is poor, the nutrient holding capacity is low, and/or that it has lost many of the beneficial soil microorganisms that assist in nutrient assimilation in the first place. In my estimation, fertilizer isn't the main driver behind restorative growth; rather it enables healthy growth in the presence of the primary drivers, water and light (and their plant product, sugar). I would think that after so long, any roses that truly do poorly on their own roots wouldn't have survived at all. I agree with the others that fertilizer should be broadcast more widely. If you need to stimulate root growth, a nutritive top dressing like compost can be lightly cultivated into the top layer of soil, which should break a small number of feeder roots and cause their regeneration into a fresh source of nutrients rather than exhausted soil. It's possible there are other things going on, such as allelopathic chemicals leached from the plant that could even become toxic to it over time, but a healthy soil microflora is also the primary way to break down those kinds of toxins. That's slightly speculative, but I'd be surprised if roses didn't have at least some allelopathic tendencies, since many of their relatives do - and being sun-loving shrubs, a little chemical warfare is in their best biological interest. This is getting dangerously close to becoming a discussion of rose soil sickness, so I'd better stop while I'm ahead ;) Stefan...See MoreDiane Brakefield
15 days agosusan9santabarbara
15 days agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agoseasiderooftop
14 days agomissmary - 6b/Central Maryland
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agopink rose(9b, FL )
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agosultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agoArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
14 days agopink rose(9b, FL )
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agoArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
14 days agopink rose(9b, FL )
13 days agolast modified: 13 days ago
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