Thank you for all the feedback! I just didn't know what to expect since I was getting this conflicting information. I have to admit that my gut is that I will get a better end product if there are no countertops in place when the templating is done, and that is how fabricator number two (my preferred one)operates. Good suggestions on asking why it takes so long after the templating is done to get the counters installed, especially since the material is right here in town already, and the fabricator only needs to go over to the yard to pick it up. I can more easily see living for three weeks without countertops than the sink (and as my husband said, if there is no sink there is also no dishwasher!). Since we plan to reuse our sink, I think I am going to talk to them about the possiblity of leaving the sink in as someone else here did. I appreciate the personal stories and the advice.

You do not need to stack two 2cm slabs on top of each other to make it look like you are using 4cm thick slabs. You only need a small amount of extra material (1-2â inches depending on edge type) to beef up just the outside edges of the counters. Laminated or mitered edges are very common here in So. Cal., where most stone and quartz is sold in 2cm size, rather than 3cm. The fabricator will put a 5/8â thick plywood subtop that is a little narrower than the finished counter size on top of the cabinet. Then the 2cm slab counter is put on top of the plywood. A narrow strip of the quartz is attached just at the edge of the counter to hide the edge of the plywood and make the whole counter look thicker. For standard 24â deep cabinets, the finished counter width with overhang is typically 25.5.â I donâÂÂt know what brand of quartz you plan to buy, but Caesarstone slabs are 56.5â wide, Hanstone is 55â wide, Silestone is 54âÂÂ, Cambria is 55.â (Some brands sell wider âÂÂjumboâ slabs if you have deeper counters.) Assuming a 55â wide slab, two 25.5â deep counters will use up 51â (plus a small amount of loss in the cutting process), leaving the few inches you need for the edge strips. You should need the same number of slabs whether you use 2cm or 3cm material. The thinner material will cost less, which should offset the increased labor cost for the laminated or mitered edge. I am going to try to attach pictures that show the different types of edges.

Hi, just discovered this thread and it's exactly the same dilemma I'm facing. Currently have an old 46" Jenn-Air electric cooktop and want to convert to natural gas. I see 46" Gas rangetops, but unsure if that would work. Obviously, the current electric cooktop was just "dropped in" to the countertop opening and it looks like a rangetop is more invasive (and I'd hate to ruin my beautiful granite that was installed 10 years ago). Any thoughts, comments would be greatly appreciated - thanks!

There are downsides to painting the tile, even if it comes out well initially and you don't use the super cheap rustoleum kit. One thing is you have to stay up on the cleaning - using it more frequently but not as abrasively. For example, I wouldn't be able to scrub the grout except for gently, maybe with a toothbrush. Also, this is not a very long term solution, maybe 3-5 years if taken care of. By then I will most likely be ready for something else anyway. To do the shower and tub together (black + white) costs less than $200 plus a weekend or so of my time, which I usually have very little of but I have plenty right now. I am not trying to argue my way of you guy's good logic, but providing more information just in case some comments were directed at cheaper products / perception of long term use (10-15 years). Also, I know a lot of you are professionals or otherwise experienced in these areas so I am still seeking and valuing your input.