Disaster under kitchen sink
Playaverde
12 days ago
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Comments (18)
latifolia
12 days agoRelated Discussions
Xenon under cabinet light disaster
Comments (3)An easy solution is to install a dimmer switch so that you can adjust the light to any level you want, rather than just "high" or "low". Make sure you get a dimmer switch that is specifically for low voltage lighting. A low-voltage dimmer costs about $50 if you buy it online. My xenon undercabs are bright white when fully on, providing excellent work light for my counter, and when I dim them, they soften to nice mood lighting, not yellow at all. I have the Juno Trac12's. I really like them. One thing that has been cautioned on this forum about the Kichler's is that Kichler makes two types, open and closed. The closed mean that the bulbs are enclosed in a plastic casing rather than having the bulbs open to the air. That has two disadvantages - it causes heat build-up, and it changes the light quality of the bulbs. Although you don't say which one you have, I wonder if you do indeed have the closed Kichlers. My Juno's are open....See Morewhat size under mount sink do I need for a 30 inch kitchen cabinet?
Comments (1)A 30" sink will undermount in a 30" cabinet if the sink is strapped, not clipped, in place no matter what the sink manufacturer says....See MoreRecommendations for a reverse osmosis filter under the kitchen sink
Comments (2)In our previous house, we had a Watts Zero Waste system. Worked great for years....See MoreChronic leak under kitchen cabinets-faulty sink install?
Comments (5)Your gap is too wide; there should be no gap. Disconnect the drain lines/disposal and remove the sink from the cabinet. You may have to unscrew the clips. If you can't get access to the screws, place a stiff scraper between the sink flange and the stone bottom and hammer the scraper into the screws; they will fail and the sink will drop. Scrape the old caulk from the sink flange and stone bottom. Install a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (BB Industries) to the cabinet sides. Run a pipe clamp through a 2x4 that spans the larger bowl and the drain hole and pull the sink to within 1" of the stone bottom. Silicone the flange, tighten the clamp, position the sink for the proper reveal, tighten the HUSH, remove the clamp, spritz the squeeze-out with Windex, spit on your finger, wipe up the squeeze-out, connect the drain lines and you're done. This may be a 3-hour job the first time you do it; it takes any man of my crew just over an hour. Without replacing your countertop, there is no other proper way to fix this. More topical silicone is useless. Your sink failed because of the clips and the fact that you have a divided sink with steel on the flat which flexed and caused the leak. A strapped divided sink cannot flex without defying the laws of physics. This repair is permanent and you will never have black/brown crud at your stone/sink flange joint again because it will never leak again. To other readers, if you have black/brown recurring crud at your sink flange/stone bottom, your sink is leaking. If the gap were smaller it wouldn't leak; if it were larger, you could clean it with that toothbrush you've been trying. It's just the right size to allow capillary action; sucking and trapping dirty sink water. Gross. This is what it looks like under there: In addition, a leaking sink endangers your reinforcement rod which can blow up your countertop: Now you're getting a new sink:...See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
12 days agoPlayaverde
12 days agoKW PNW Z8
12 days agolast modified: 12 days agoM Miller
12 days agolast modified: 12 days agoZumi
12 days agolatifolia
12 days agoM Miller
12 days agochispa
12 days agokculbers
12 days ago
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