I usually do not have to deahead because the plants "self clean" during the winter months. Annabelle is the one that keeps the blooms sometimes. On those occasions (when the blooms are still there as Spring begins), I deadhead them. But some people do not like them and they can be deadheaded earlier like when the plant goes dormant or even when they turn brown. As for fertilizers, I use 1/2 cup to 1 cup of cottonseed meal or composted manure of plain ole regular compost about 0-2 weeks after my last average date of last frost. During the rest of the growing season, I may add some coffee grounds, liquid fish of liquid seaweed. I stop adding all fertilizers by the start of July (it is way too hot then and I want the plants to go dormant when Fall arrives). See the following links: for information on deadheading, go to the link below. Scroll down to the section titled "PRUNING: METHOD TWO" and scroll UPWARDS to the two pargraphs titled "REMOVING OLD BLOOMS" http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/pruning.html

Yep---we are on the same wavelength---I'm wanting the same thing from my hedge. The only advice I have is from Deborah Silver, the landscaper who planted the limelight hedges in the pictures I posted a while back. She says to give them a shag haircut---where the top is a little shorter, and the sides are longer. This is too abstract for me to visualize, so I like her second explaination better---to trim them like an egg on its side. So an oblong oval so to speak. I suppose this will encourage the sides to branch into one another, and the front branches to hang down a bit--making it seem less leggy. Hope that helps--it is what I plan to do with mine :)

Can somebody please suggest what is the best time to prune so I get more flowers next summer. The best time is NO time :-)) I don't mean to be facetious but hydrangeas that produce colored flowers (blue, purple, pink, white or mixed) in the mophead or lacecap form, bloom primarily on growth that was produced the previous growing season. It is my suggestion that these types of hydrangeas should be sited where they can be allowed to grow to size without the need for regular pruning. If you prune in late summer through spring, you risk removing most of the flowering potential. Deadheading or just removing spent flowerheads can be done whenever, provided you only remove down to the next set of buds below the flower. Removing dead growth stems can be done whenever you want - the suggestion of waiting until Memorial Day is that any healthy stems with new bud growth should be readily visible by then so it is easy to make the distinction. If your hydrangeas bud out earlier than that date, you can certainly remove the dead stems at that time. But neither of these practices are pruning for size. If you DO need to prune the hydrangea due to size, etc., there are a couple of suggested methods. The first is rejuvenation pruning or the removal of upto 1/3 of the plant - typically the oldest stems - to the ground in spring. While this is an extended project, it does serve to reduce the overall size of the plant for a period of time while maintainting a decent bloom. It also serves to encourage new, vigorous growth from the root crown. The second method is a one time reduction in the total shrub to the height you desire - i.e., cutting back a 5' tall shrub to a uniform 2'. You will sacrifice most, if not all, of the flowers but only for a single season. You should also be aware that the latent flower buds produced by these types of hydrangeas can be damaged by winter cold or late spring frosts, which can also negatively impact flowering. Employing some sort of winter protection can avoid this. There are a number of new cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla on the market that have been bred to bloom on both old and new growth. These were developed specifically for cold weather gardeners to enjoy the flowers despite any winter damage mentioned above. Theoretically, these types can be pruned back as well and still flower, however again, you will get the best flower display if you can avoid annual pruning (and any winter damage). Here is a link that might be useful: pruning Hydrangea macrophylla

Your twiggy branches may be big branches in a couple so consider why you want to prune them. I do not prune my hydrangeas unless they get too close to areas where the growth is a problem. Branches that cross may make me prune and dead stems/branches get pruned in May but other than that, I just do not prune at all. Unless there is growth that really gets under my skin for some reason. Like roses. You know those well known stems that zoom to the sky unexpectedly in what seems to be just a few days? Ha. Roses? Well, sigh, yes, I do prune those so I do not want more work if the hydrangea plant fits in the area where it is planted.