A few fun results from minis X OGRS
roseseek
17 days ago
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sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
17 days agoroseseek thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)Related Discussions
OGRs in my very hot climate
Comments (47)Carrie, that was my old post, 11 years ago. I used to have the name Jaspermplants but had to change it at some point, don't remember why. In the time since that post I have gotten busy with some other stuff and don't have as many roses as I used to. At that time (I think Vintage was still around), I was experimenting a lot and had a lot of successes and failures. Also, it has gotten hotter here since then and we have had ongoing drought so some roses haven't done as well as they used to, especially in the past 2-3 years. It is very worrisome. Looking back at that post, I still have Mme Bravy which is probably fairly hard to find now; I probably got it (and many others) at Vintage, which was like heaven because they had so many varieties of roses. The others that still do well for me are Duchess de Brabant and Mme Joseph Swartz, Maman Cochet and the climbers, Souv de la Malmaison (which is full of blooms now) and a couple of her sports which I also have. I don't think you could go wrong with having Souv de la Malmaison here; it is truly wonderful. Romaggi Plot Boubon is great but I had to take the one I had out and I can't remember why. I've had a new one for about 2 years but it has been slow to develop. Mrs BR Cant also had to come out and I have a new one (a couple years old) but it has not done as well. She gets huge though. But she bloomed constantly. Also, I don't worry about what does or doesn't bloom in the summer; it is survival time for roses here then. But, they bloom most of the rest of the year here. So, conversations about what should bloom in our awful summer heat are not applicable to my rose-growing. I also have some moderns I like, I think I mentioned in another thread: Firefighter. Fragrant Cloud, St Patrick, Marmelade Skies. I don't have a lot of them, but I enjoy brighter colors too, at times. There are many more that do well here; besides the heat, the climate is pretty good for roses here, I think. I just experiment and try try again. Good luck...See MoreOGRs from seed
Comments (11)What I did last year was simple actually, it's really fun! There was a big hip on my 'Queen Elizabeth', I placed a baggie around it to stop birds or other animals that might take a taste and loosely tied it with a tie-thingermabob. Sometime in I think October, when the hip is entirely red/orange and less firm, and the flower stem starts to brown, it's okay to pick the hip. Some people let their seeds stay in the hip for a awhile after that. I immediately shelled it, as in took the hip into the kitchen and picked out the seeds. Some hips will have practically all seed to their substance, like multiflora hips, or can be very pulpy ( you can make jam out of that part) and have fuzzy down prickles filling up most of the space, such is the case with many rugosas you see at the beaches in Mass or Maine. Some people actually fill a blender with water, with sand and quickly sand blast the seeds, but I didn't, I was afraid I'd chop them up. Once seeds are cleaned you can take a paper towel and dip it in a solution of water and diluted hydrogen peroxide. There are other methods and alternatives to the peroxide, but I'm not sure what. Now it is time for stratification. I placed the seeds in the paper towel, made sure it was damp but not soakingly wet, fold it for security- then place it in a another baggie. I tape the baggie closed or label it with tape what it is. Generally, if picking hips off of your plants that occurred naturally, you mention the mother plant. Thus if your seeds came from a 'Queen Elizabeth' plant, your seedlings will be 'OP Queen Elizabeth seedlings'. If you put pollen from a different plant one another plant deliberately you label it female x male order, which means you list the bush that's formed the hip, " the mother", followed by the "father" who provided the pollen. You then stick it in the fridge and leave it there for a good few weeks to months. You will start to know if you have germination if the seed coats crack and small things can be visible inside. I sometimes wait for a bit of root formation before planting them, I wanted to be sure. It takes patience, so put it in a place you'll forget about and not bother, like in the butter compartment or something. When you do get some germinations, you can plant the seed in flats shallowly in a very light medium, some people use sand and perlie, other use perlite and other mixed mediums, it just has to be light. You then shine a light (any flourescent light will do, on the flat or pot for a good portion of the day. Since I'm very interested in breeding, and purchase things with breeding in mind, OGR'S are very worthwhile in breeding, however a good number are unfortunately considered dead ends due to sterility. Alba roses, despite having plentiful hips, have a weird chromosome count, thus have difficulty being used in a breeding program. Gallicas seem to be a good class to experiment with, although some are sterile. Same with damasks, a good number of them are sterile. Noisettes are really good. Paul Barden told me that 'Crepuscule's' pollen should be tried on ANYTHING....See Morepaley method results - euros in a bucket of dirt
Comments (15)I came back looking for that advice from iowa about bigger worms. I need to try some of that. I appreciated it when I read back then, but not sure if I got to write a thanks. So, thanks for that. I didn't get out fishing much until the last month. The bins I filled in Feb need to be harvested soon to side dress my garden crops. Half a bin done so far, a bunch to go. I may try the burlap ideas. Between the indoor bins, an outside plastic tote, and two big compost piles, I have plenty of worms to fish with and make dirt. But I STILL haven't concentrated on increasing individual size and skin toughness. The buckets I started this year to "multiply" the best of the herd failed spectacularly. The buckets developed white hairy mold in no time flat. I lost all the experimental subjects, as I recall, even the nice big ones that were a couple years old. Could have been a lot of things and probably was a bit of everything. It was awhile back now, but the possible reasons I recall were my garden dirt being too dry before starting, the old dog food was two years older, and the holes I put in the buckets were ice picked from the bottom up, instead of top down. The first time, a couple years back, I used mostly vegetable scrap as food, and the dirt was relatively freshly dug. This time it was all old dog food, and I remember the dirt I dug sat for quite a while before I made up the buckets....See Moreresults from lack of foliage cutback
Comments (22)Sey, in the previous years I went from HEAVY pruning to very, VERY little pruning. Last year – for the first time – I tried Mr. Charles Wilber’s “18 branches” technique. And it worked for me. Well, until mid / late August, when things went out of hand, but it was no problem; on contrary. Here is Mr. Charles Wilber’s book: How to Grow World Record Tomatoes: A Guinness Champion Reveals His All-Organic Secrets. Two threads about it: - Charles WIlber's (How to Grow the World Record Tomatoes) - Mr. Wilber's "18 branches" technique. Some short descriptions of the method: "Proper Pruning: The magic number is 18 branches. For the optimal yield, six lower suckers are allowed to grow and split once (12 branches) while two upper suckers are each allowed to split into three (six more branches). Pinch off unwanted suckers twice a week." [ World-Record Tomatoes ] "His ideal plant has 18 branches. The lower 6 branches are allowed to split once for a total of 12 branches. The top two branches are allowed to split three ways each for a total of 6 branches. As each branch develops, it is led to the outside of the cage and trained to grow upward. Suckers that grow on the 18 branches should be pinched off if the branch is weak." [ Just A Pinch Grows Tomatoes Tall ] "Charles Wilber set several world records for tomato size and production. His secret – keep the plant nourished, watered, and stress free. He also determined that 18 branches were the secret to his success. Some growers say that anything other than the main branch is sucking the life out of the plant (hence the name ‘sucker’). This is not true. Wilber discovered that for his variety, 18 suckers was the magic tipping point. Anything more reduced production. Anything less had less production." [ Don’t waste those suckers ] I didn't get "28-foot, 7-inch-tall" tomato, like Mr. Wilber, but I'm sure I had some vines 20+ ft. My crop was much, MUCH smaller than Mr. Wilber's, but I keep learning things. As you can see in the picture bellow, on the frame on the right - 16 ft. wide x 12 ft. high - the tomatoes rich 13-14 ft. Then I directed them horizontally and they grew almost 10 feet more. Anyway, it was fun last year, and I love JUNGLES !...See Moreroseseek
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