For me, the key difference between Rebecca's experiences and mine with CPM are the words "snow cover". She had total snow cover and total winter survival, where I usually have no consistent snow cover and no cane survival (though it's root hardy for me). That's why my CPM never blooms. The temperatures below the snow never get below 32 degrees F so that's why the air temperature can be well below zero and the rose survives fine. We're too dry to get consistent snow cover in the winter so my CPM never has surviving cane. I agree that she's not a rose for a small space, though she grows well on a obelisk. If you get consistent snow cover and/or bring it inside for the winter with the obelisk you might get blooms. Sorry to hear about JD, Carol. My John Davis only hangs in by a toenail every winter in my zone 4 pocket but isn't quite dead after several years. I've never gotten him big enough to bloom though. Cynthia

Sorry for not responding. I happened to revisit this thread and saw your question. I've done this with lots of Austins and OGR roses. I plant the rooted cuttings about a foot to a foot and a half away from the mother. As they grow up the whole thing forms what looks like one really big bush. Odd numbers of plants seem to look better so either 3 or 5 together. David Austin actually recommends doing this on his website to achieve a more filled out cottage style effect. Although that look isn't really achieved until all of the plants have about 3 years or more to grow to a more mature size. Actually you can see the mother plant of the CPM growing behind the one blooming in the photo. Now, a year later since I'm responding so late, all three plants are about the same size. About 5.5 to 6 feet tall. The three together are about an area that is 5.5 to 6 feet wide. Right next to this CPM is a red moss, a Salet, and Issac Pereire that I've done the same thing with. In the winter you can easily distinguish the separate bushes, but during the growing season, when everything is growing full blast, it really looks like one big and very full bush. They really don't have any problems growing closely together. In the spring I might prune out a dead cane or two, or ones that might be crossing badly, but I tend to prune as little as I have to anyway.

Shay: David Austin catalog 2019 offered some own-roots, but I look through David Austin Catalog 2020 .. own-roots are no longer offered through them. From your pic., it's a grafted-rose. If your rose is bought from David Austin, then it's grafted-on-Dr.Huey, and this aggressive root-stock will take over if the bud-union (where the green branches come out) IS NOT BURIED at least 4 inch. below ground. When Dr.Huey takes over, you'll get Dr.Huey blooms (dark-red single-petals) rather than CPM's blooms (yellow/orange). If your roses are bought from Palatine or Hortico, then it's grafted on multiflora, another aggressive root-stock that takes over but produces tiny single-petal white flowers. Dr.Huey's typical trait is tons of blooms in 1st years, but very stingy in 3rd year and latter. My CPM is own-root so the 1st year is whitish-thin-cluster root and was very stingy the 1st year (only 1 bloom & other folks had the same complaint), but as it matures it blooms tons. If you scroll up to the top, the 2nd pic. of my CPM was taken this July 2020. I'm concerned since your bud-union is higher than the soil-level, it should be buried at least 4 inch. below ground to ensure that the root-stock won't take over when the upper branches die through the winter. I had seen roots of my 130 varieties as own-root, plus I root roses from cuttings and own-roots never look chunky & fat & woody like that. I have a few roses grafted-on-Dr.Huey and multiflora, and the grafted-on-Dr.Huey has a longer & fatter stick than multiflora. See pic. below, the bud-union should be buried 4" below soil in cold-zone so the root-stock won't take over when the upper canes die through winter. My experience with Dr.Huey-rootstock in a pot: it doesn't handle acidic rain well when that accumulates in the pot, and will break out in black spots in heavy rain.

The roses I have in a part shade situation don't bloom nearly as well. Full sun in FL and full sun in say, a desert or even just a drier climate is totally different. When people generally say don't put in full sun, they talk about places without a ton of humidity. Our rainy season is in summer when the sun is most intense. The more humidity you have, the more sun the plants can take. As long as my roses are well watered they generally dont fry. I do have some of my roses in pots and its a chore sometimes to keep everything watered so thats when I experience any "frying" of petals. I havent lived in all of FL so I dont know what everyone's specific humidity levels are during the summer lol. I am on the east coast about 20 miles from the ocean, as the crow flies, plus two rivers nearby and one is about a few acres behind our property. So it does get very humid here. During summer I can get away with letting the rain water the roses half the time. Fl folks living more inland may have different conditions. Amending your soil with lots of rich organic compost will help keep that moisture in. You will have to keep amending every year because much will get filtered through the sand. I just keep a few compost piles and put it on the beds every spring and fall. A good layer of mulch on top will also help keep roots cooler and keep in the moisture. Most of FL has sandy soil. Our property has a good mix of sand, orange clay, or nice rich soil depending where you are on the property. If you are worried, you could put your rose in a pot and move it around and see what works for you.