If it were a blueberry shrub, I would suggest 3/4 cup of sulfur, half in the bottom of the hole, and half scattered on top of the soil, but under the mulch, right after planting. That would be enough sulfur to lower the pH by a point or maybe 2 points, maximum. Bear in mind that sulfur has to be metabolized by bacteria that live in the soil, so it takes two years for the process to be completed. Here in Wisconsin, where I live, our native soil is high in iron, so I don't ever add iron sulfate or supplemental iron. The shrubs can get the iron they need from the soil, when the pH is in the correct range.

I found this (keep the seeds away from children and pets): Re: Texas Mountain Laurel seeds From: Reid Category: Texas Native Plants Date: 29 Dec 2001 Time: 18:47:36 Remote Name: 208.152.131.249 Comments Growing a mtn. laurel from seed is not hard at all. Remove the seeds from the pods as soon as they are red and hard (anytime from mid-summer on)now the "trick" to getting them to germinate is to nick the seed, I just use a file to cut thru the seed coat till you just get to the white,not to much now you just need the seed to be able to take in water so it can start the germintion process. After I nick the seed I will soak them in water or better yet in some seaweed and water for a few hours (till I see the seed start to swell up) them all you have to do is plant your seeds about 1/2inch deep keep moist but not wet don't let them freeze (you will get more and faster results if your soil is warm)stand back and you should have young seedlings in no time at all. For more details you should look at Jill Nokes book how to grow native plants of texas and the southwest. good luck and have fun. Reid

Congratulation! You have a lot of courage to plant it in your z4 and you won! Take it from Connecticut's kalmias lover, where they grow like a weeds. Here are few pictures of another kalmias you might want to consider in a future, Carousel Keepsake Despite the popular belief that kalmias are shade lovers (they are shade tolerant, that's it) kalmias if planted in a too shady location will not bloom as good as those that are planted in part to full sun. The main trick is to give them protection from the WINTER sun to avoid dissecation of the leaves. In their young years they need to be protected (as you did) from the cold AND from the sun, but later on, winter sun will be your worse enemy. Use wilt-pruff and/or burlap wrap/screen. Water well before ground will be frozen, but do not overwater in a summer (especially if planted in a shade), cause Phytophora ramorum fungus while being harmless to overall plant's health could seriously ruin aesthetic appearance of the leaves. Good luck! Now I'm convinced that I could grow camellias!

Contrary to the popular opinion that Kalmias NEED a shade, they could TOLERATE part to full shade, but in reality than more sun they get the more fuller and floriferous they be. Native range of Kalmias is z5-8 and in z7-8 they would definitely appreciate protection from the scorching afternoon sun. In z5-6 that will be not an issue at all if you'll provide adequate watering during dry spells. Mulch it well and you'll be fine. ' Right now it's not so bad. I was thinking more about the dog days of high summer." Well, I'd rather be worry about full sun exposure in a dog days of a high winter. As all broad leaf evergreens, though not as much as Rhododendrons, Kalmias are succeptible to winter sunburns. Dissecating winds are another problem. Water it VERY WELL in late fall or early winter when grounds still will be able to absorb water and if yours is not too large yet, wilt-pruf it. Unfortunately 'Wilt-pruf' will not last the whole winter and you'll have to reapply it on a warm day sometime in a January. Good luck.