What type of grass do I have?

last month

Is there an easy way to figure out what type of grass I have vs my neighbor? Theirs always looks much greener and we have inconsistent grass bc we had to put sod down in one spot as you can see. Also, should I seed now? We get pretty much full sun.

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Comments (4)

callirhoe123
last month
Ask your neighbor. The difference may be the type of grass or perhaps their routine for lawn care...fertilizing, aerating etc.
Mara333
Original Author
last month
Thanks! Yes, i agree. The neighbor doesn’t know the type of grass she has . That’s why I’m asking if I can take it to a nursery or something to figure out what I should have
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Nutz. Lol. That should be fine. Let's bring Lucy in because there is a little 'splaining to do: Spreader settings for a fertilizer product are based on (1) Prill size (the diameter of the little beads of the product) and (2) the percent of the controlling nutrient content in the product. (this is the highest of the three numbers, X-X-X. For most products this will be N, the first number.) Although lawn nuts shoot for one pound, in most cases this will result in less than one pound of nutrient per 1k sq ft. in most do it yourself homeowner aimed products like Scotts. They like to play safe. For instance, Scotts Turfbuilder 32-0-4, 12.5 lb. bag for 5k sq ft. = (12.5/5)X.32 will result in .8lbs of N per 1k sq ft.; or Milorganite 5-2-0, 36 lb bag for 2.5K sq ft = (36/2.5)X.05 will result in .72 lbs of N per 1k sq ft. Moving on. Prill size. Most products come in a standard prill size. You need to determine if the prill size of the triple 12 is the same as the Scotts or JG. Take a palm full of the triple 12 and a palm full of the Scotts or the JG and compare. Keep in mind that due to the manufacturing process, there will be some prills slightly smaller than the majority and some larger. If prills of the triple 12 are very similar, proceed on. % nutrient. Determine the amount of triple 12 nutrient that will be applied when using the Scotts or JG product spreader setting. As an example, using Scotts Step 3, Scotts recomends using the 3.5 setting for the Scotts Edgeguard spreader and the 12.5 lb bag will cover 5000 sq ft, so...12.5/5 = 2.5 lbs of product will be spread over 1k sq ft at a 3.5 setting. For triple 12 (if prill size is the same) that means using a setting of 3.5 will result in 2.5X.12=.3lbs of N and P and K being applied to to 1k sq ft of lawn. At the 3.5 setting you will need to make three passes to apply .9lbs/sq ft of N, P and K---about as close to the 1lb of NPK as you are going to get. HOWEVER, as you are applying the triple for the purpose of applying Pand K for root growth and as root growth is maximized when soil temps are 55 to 65F AND as P binds very quickly and its availability is thereby reduced, you may want to divide the three apps and spread them out over the month of October for maximum benefit. WARNING: The fact that a setting of 3.5 results in 2.5 lbs of product does NOT mean that a setting of 7 will result in the application of 5lbs of product. There are are number of methods to calibrate your spreader: Google "spreader calibration". Too much work and/or mess for me though.
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
last month
Very few nurseries specialize in turf grasses to my knowledge so you may not find your answers there. And to be honest, most turf grasses look pretty similar anyway. Also, your location will determine what types of grasses will do best for you and are common to your area. If you live in the northern tier of the country, your lawn could very well be a blend of several different types of grasses, which adds to the complexity of an identification....and the reason the sodded portion looks so different. Sod is usually just a single grass type, not a blend.

Where you live geographically also has a bearing on when is the best time to seed or overseed. In almost all cases, spring is not ideal as the grass does not have sufficient time to establish before being hit by the heat of the summer. Late summer or early fall is generally the recommended time frame.

Come back and let us know regionally where you live and then hopefully we cam be more helpful.
dchall_san_antonio
last month
Making the assumption that the photo is taken recently - since the trees are not green, I'm going to guess you live in the far north. As gardengal mentioned, you likely have a blend of grasses including fescue, rye, and Kentucky bluegrass. Fescue and rye normally remains green all winter. KBG usually become brown in the winter. If you would like to influence the nature of greenness according to those guidelines, you could wait until late summer to overseed with fescue or one of the others.

For now you have what you have. What is your goal? If you're worried about it not being green, the biggest influence on greening is fertilizer. Secondary to that is mowing height. Do you want the greenest lawn on the block? Do you just want uniform greenness? Do you just want something green which keeps the mud out of the house?

When were the last two times you fertilized, and what did you use?

What is your watering routine? How often and for how long?

What is your mowing schedule? Generally weekly mowing is recommended, and I always recommend mowing at the mower's highest setting to obtain the most dense and green of lawns. There are exceptions, but yours does not appear to be one of them.

Have you used any insecticides, herbicides, or fungicides in the past year? If so, what and when?

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What type of grass do I have?

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callirhoe123

Mara333
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callirhoe123

Mara333Original Author

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