is it necessary to match boxwood?
Dorian W
26 days ago
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Comments (9)
Dorian W
23 days agoRelated Discussions
Boxwood hedge (capped with something other than boxwood)
Comments (5)The house looks like it might be nice, but the walk looks like it is the basic utilitarian (only) walk sized for a mobile home. You might consider expanding the pad at the entrance to the full width of the center column span. (The walk leading to it could probably stand widening, too.) It is not an advantage to make the entrance area between the center columns appear less wide. Placing those tall planters in that space makes the entrance seem pinched, especially if there were plants in them. They are acting as part of a barrier system. I think they'd be better close to the house flanking the porch. Flanking the entrance to the porch, it would be better to plant something that attracts the view -- like flowers -- and stays low so as not to impede it. If not annuals, then a low perennial perennial or groundcover that blooms for some length of time ... Ajuga being one possibility. ... so as to make things look more inviting....See MoreBoxwood lost its bark over the winter, still green
Comments (1)bark is a protective covering.. say like a catchers shin guards ... its the green cambian layer just below the bark .. where the fluids move thru the plant that is important .... perhaps not scientific.. but thats how i think of it.. w/o pics.. its hard to give you any further opinion ... if you dont remove .. or properly prune out the damaged branches.. dont you think this winter is going to be worse on the structure of the plant??? it was a neat experience to observe how your plant responded to the insult.. but you might want to become proactive regarding its future health ... since it pretty late in the season for aggressive pruning.. you might want to get an opinion on proper timing of major surgery ... ken...See MoreIs texturing a kitchen really necessary before painting?
Comments (9)Don't do the paint additives! I'm from the midwest, where sand walls are the overwhelming norm. (By this point, I really think it is more a "style" thing than everyone in the midwest failed to score a good drywall job.) In my sister's house, the previous owners did a diy repair of a wall and used the additive. It was awful. Lumpy, stripy, clumpy, with blobs of sand/paint mix. I don't think there is any way to EVER get an even distribution of the sand if applied in this manner. AND (here's the important part) there was absolutely NO way to get it off. They had to resurface the entire wall. (Yes, it was terrifically bad and had to be addressed.) What if it turns out poorly? There is no way to un-do your "shortcut". At the very least, buy a bucket of paint, add the sand and do a really big (simulating an expanse of wall) test patch. This way you can see the streaks and bunching-up that is inevitable BEFORE you mess up your kitchen. Make sure the test board is big enough that you have a realistic overlap of "M" and "W" blocks...so you can see how the sand shifts when backrolled. I agree with the other posters that there is nothing wrong with smooth walls, but if you are so used to sand, then you're really should pay to get the sand sprayed....See MoreIs a backspash necessary? How about Beadboard? Pictures?
Comments (27)I am very undecided about this. I think a short soapstone BS would be the easiest to keep clean, but I also like the look of beadboard down to the counter. (that would also save some $$). All I am sure of is that I have lost all interest in tile. So many beautiful kitchens are pictured in this thread! Maybe I can't go wrong either way. Momof3 - I love the simple trim you used. I worry about trim like that getting damaged when used behind the sink or a workspace such as next to the stove. Your beautiful brick veneer will never look dirty. The cabinet order is going in this week, so I am getting very excited. I need to decide about this backsplash so I can move on to other decisions - paint color and hardware. What do you think of this idea: The kitchen will be entirely fitted with cabinets, so my GC has suggested putting beadboard on all exposed walls: backsplash, behind the range, tiny wall section with wall-hung radiator, and above the 2 windows and 3 doors. (10 x 12 room). Will that look too "cute"? The walls are plaster (and plasterwork will be needed either way), and the ceiling will be drywall....See MoreDorian W
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