Hi there - i have something similar on my anthurium - the brown spots with the yellow hallo and the stem rot are in your photos are uncannily similar in appearance to what my one has. Did you ever find out what it was, and more importantly, find a solution to it?

@barbmock... Thanks for asking about my green babies Barb... They are doing much better; I’ve had more of a desire to care for them this year, and you can tell... the ones you so generously sent me are doing awesome, I only lost a ‘Streaker’ (not sure if from you haha! ) I’ll post a pic in a couple of months when they start to show growth!

could the leaves have been damaged during the move ... minor tissue injury.. can take a while before it starts to show ... could we see a pic of the whole?? since we can see circling roots.. thats arent even in the media ... come spring.. it might be a good time to repot into a slightly bigger pot ... i cant tell what kind of media you have it in.. but i bet you can do better ... think of media as a water management system .. water in the top... all excess out the bottom ... when it gets old ... then you might start having problems ... the leaf damage does not look related to your watering schedule.. since it appears so location specific.. rather than the whole leaf ... but again.. i cant see the whole plant also ... after the move.. how different was the available light? ken

Over-watering ..... the same reason the leaf has not formed normally. Prolonged saturation of the grow medium limits uptake of Ca(lcium), which must be in the nutrient stream at all times if plant parts are to form normally. Lighten the hand on the watering can, forget the advice to "water when the top inch or two of the soil feels dry to the touch, and start testing soil moisture levels with a "tell" and things will turn around. Do you fertilize regularly? Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al