sorry i didn't clarify. i'm using the orchid fir bark to for my blueberry bush. i only bought the orchid mix because i couldn't find fir bark anywhere else. It should work fine, but is larger than ideal. All this means is you will need to water a bit more often. If you are OK with that, all is well. When it comes to particle size, it's not just about the length/width, it is also about how the individual particles pack together. Lack of uniformity in shape is desirable and this results in particles that have difficulty compressing together and thus open air spaces result. Jane says: Different size bark or stone leaves large air spaces. Most orchid roots would rot if buried in any type gritty or soil mix. Different sizes do not necessarily leave large air spaces. Different shapes do. If we were to take particles where half were 1/8th inch squares and the rest were 1" squares they would eventually compact to make a solid block. The smaller squares would simply fill in the spaces between any larger squares. If our shapes are squares, circles, triangles and etc. then they have a very hard time fitting together like puzzle pieces and sealing up air passageways. The mean size of the particles is important, but once that size is achieved it's more important to have irregular shapes than shapes capable of fitting together and filling in those air spaces.

Hi, lara. Root hormones work, they really do. You can get them in powders, gels and liquid forms. I've used them on tropicals and houseplants for many years, and on orchids successfully for about five years. You paint the gel or powder or rootless pieces, or can paint the gel on existing poor roots or root nubs. The liquid (eg Dyna Grow KLN, or Hormex) can be used as a watering solution each time you water, and encourage root growth. Check out the websites of Charlie's Greenhouse or Worms' Way to see the different kinds available, and the prices. They are sometimes called "cloning" or "propagation" solutions. This time of year, plus the root hormones, you should be able to get good roots started and maintained on your orchids. There have been a number of threads here on re-rooting rootless orchids. If you do a search, you may be able to find some of them. Search for "root", "rootless" or "re-rooting", see what you get. One useful thread was entitled something like "don't give up on your rootless phals". Sphagnum moss around the area where roots would form helps maintain a humid and slightly moist environment that encourages roots. Good luck.

I had an orchid that had only two viable roots left, and they were very short. It had 8 leaves when it got sick, and because it could no longer support them, all except two fell off. As more roots grew back and the plant got stronger, it put out more leaves (small ones at first), and now it has 7. I kept it in bark/charcoal mix to help maintain humidity, and I misted the root area every 2-3 days, because it had no other way of taking in water. I have read suggestions to place a clear plastic bag over the plant to keep it humid, but I disagree with this theory: orchids need air flow. This was two years ago, and I believe that this plant is finally back to the same condition it was before it got sick. I'm trying to do the same with another that was given as a gift, it was like yours: rotten in moss. I'm not having the same luck, but I'm still trying. Good luck to you!

Doesn't look all that bad. Old roots and leaves die. The potting mix is not some sort of pristine place. It teems with fungi and bacteria good and bad and as long as your growing conditions are favourable the plant will thrive. Where are you and what sort of temperatures, humidity and light is the plant getting and if you are in the north of USA will the plant get good conditions in winter?