I can see that not only am I unable to spell Citation correctly, my wordsmithery, at least in terms of building a mental picture, stinks. You deciphered enough of the post to understand some of what I'm contemplating: - I am definitely leaving this stock in ground with three to four apricots bark grafted onto four of the larger branches. It's what I do or don't do with the remaining plethora of sturdy branches coming off of the 18" of trunk that led to my initial post. I hate to waste 'em when I've got so many scions to graft. I can always buy stone fruit rootstock (not Citation, however, which grows well here) but if I can better use what I have growing in my own orchard, why not? - I would like to air layer at least 10 remaining largish branches and eventually (probably next spring if the singular estimate I've located of 4-6 months to root a peach branch is accurate) plant them in my orchard. - Some of the largish branches I am going to air layer have smaller side branches that are large enough in their own right to graft to, so I'm wondering if I should try to get a head start by grafting scions to those side branches. There needs to be a canopy above the air layer to provide the nutrition and necessary chemistry to the site where you want roots, so I can't take too much canopy away while grafting scions, but I'm thinking I can sacrifice a small side branch (keep in mind that all 10 of the branches I'm considering air layering are from 6'- 8' tall with multiple side branches of their own) from the main air-layer branch without harming the potential for success...assuming, of course, that I can get the Citation to successfully send roots out, which was actually the poorly stated main thrust of my initial post - has anybody tried air layering a stone fruit or stone fruit rootstock? As for rooting cuttings from the Citation, everything I've read claims that it's nearly impossible to root stone fruit cuttings, so I really never considered that approach. If you know different, Ace, do tell.

In terms of peach rootstock, I grow my own. I have planted pits before but don't do that anymore. A lot of fruit falls on the ground. Later in the fall I add mulch under the trees (on top of whatever pits are there). This seems to be a pretty good sprouting medium and the peach seedlings come up like weeds. I don't move the seedlings but graft them right where they come up. Peach pits that land in the grass (where I mow) don't sprout, or if they do I mow them down without noticing. I've heard some say you need to clean the pits, refrigerate with a wet towel, or remove the seed from the stone, etc. I've tried some of those things and found it a waste of time. A couple years ago, I simply planted a bunch of peach pits in a fence row (in the Fall) where I wouldn't mow and the next Spring a fair percentage sprouted. Like I say, now with the mulch they come up under the trees automatically.

I mistakenly did this to a large redbud tree when a kid about 10. Did not strip everything, but more than enough to kill the tree over time. I'm sorry the tree is good as dead, it just hasn't died just yet. Depending upon how high the striping is, you MAYBE can cut the tree off at that level, and MAYBE get a new shoot to form to assume the old canopies place. IF it does sprout it would regenerate much more quickly than a new tree, as the root system will be pushing canopy growth ASAP to replace what was lost. With that said, if regeneration is not fast enough, it still might die. Personally I would try cutting at the strip line (assuming it is a couple feet up), paint the open wood with copper to stop rot, hope for the bes, and then plant a replacement nearby. I would also do the cut NOW, so the tree does not completely expend itself trying to support a canopy that is not able to give anything back. JMHO Arktrees

Verticillium and fusarium wilt is fairly unusual in rhododendrons. Purdue University considers rhododendrons resistant. Ohio State considers rhododendrons to be typically free of this disease. There are other fungi that cause dieback in rhododendrons. It probably isn't a root rot since that is usually fatal. Dieback is usually caused by f Botryosphaeria Dieback, Phomopsis Dieback, Phytophthora Dieback, or Rhizoctonia Dieback. Botryosphaeria dothidea causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch. This is the most common disease of rhododendron in the landscape. A typical symptom of this fungal disease is scattered dying branches on an otherwise healthy plant. Leaves on infected stems turn brown, then droop and roll inward. These leaves often lay flat against the stem and will remain attached. The pathogen can infect all ages of stem tissue through wounds, pruning cuts, and leaf scars. Heat, drought stress, and winter injury can increase disease incidence. Cankers on branches can gradually grow through the wood until the stem becomes girdled. Diseased wood is reddish brown in appearance. Discolored wood viewed in longitudinal cross section often forms a wedge that points toward the center of the stem, and the pith may be darker brown than the surrounding wood. Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. Plants should be grown in partial shade, with mulch and kept well watered during dry periods. All dying branches should be promptly pruned out in dry weather and all discolored wood should be removed. Plants should also be protected from rough treatment during maintenance activities to prevent unnecessary wounds. Phomopsis rhododendri symptoms vary from leaf spots to chlorosis and then browning of leaves which then wilt. Browning streaks extend down the stem to a wound. Fungicides such as metalaxyl (Subdue) should control an outbreak. Sanitation and applying a fungicide after pruning may provide control. Phytophthora cactorum causes the central vein of a leaf to turn brown and the discoloration extends to the petiole on tender new growth. The infections spreads outward from the midrib tissue and the leaf wilts. Infections are more severe on azaleas. Some varieties of rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, Nova Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, PJM). Control of the disease is difficult. Since the infection goes from the roots to the tips, when you see the symptoms it is too late. To prevent it, use a raised bed with lots of sphagnum peat moss. Also, keep the mulch back 2 to 3 inches from the stem. Prevention with fungicides and careful control of exposure to high humidity may be practical. Rhizoctonia solani: causes small necrotic spots on leaves, which later become dark brown or black. Defoliation follows severe leaf spotting. The fungus is omnipresent in the soil and appears to be most virulent at high humidity levels. Microscopic examination of roots and crown are the surest diagnosis. Cultural practices to control this disease include improvement of drainage and avoiding excess irrigation. It seems to only be present in irrigated beds such as at nurseries. Nurseries now have a chemical-free way to prevent Rhizoctonia; a hot water treatment. Rhizoctonia Web Blight causes dieback of interior leaves of compact tightly-growing azaleas within irrigated landscape beds. Rhizoctonia web blight is often seen during the warmer, humid summer months. Infection begins in the interior of the plant as the fungus survives in the soil or container rooting medium. Infected leaves develop brown lesions and eventually the entire leaf will brown and separate from the stem. The affected leaves often remain matted together by the fungus´s web-like growth (hyphae) that holds the brown leaves within the canopy. As the temperature cools in the fall, the fungus stops growing and the matted leaves drop from the plant. The disease is only a problem in landscape azaleas that are sprinkler irrigated. Wet foliage and high humidity favor infection. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to irrigate landscape beds. Also, remove fallen leaf debris from beneath plants. Fungicides can provide some control but should not be relied upon solely. Apply fungicides at the first sign of disease and continue through the summer months. The Department of Agriculture Research Service has found a prevention. Plant pathologist Warren Copes found placing the cuttings in water at 122 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes is the most effective method to eliminate Rhizoctonia without damaging the plant, thus eliminating the need for fungicide treatment. The pathogen can be eliminated in less time when placed in water at higher temperature, but the risk of damaging the cutting increases. According to Copes, there is still potential for the cuttings to be re-contaminated in other areas of the production process. He is trying to identify which steps pose the most risk for re-contamination, with the goal of maximizing control of this fungal disease with the least amount of effort and expense for producers. Here is a link that might be useful: How to care for rhododendrons