The first bend in the trunk is result of a previous pruning. I noticed that when I was looking at the first images. Looks like the trunk bifurcated (split to form a 'Y') at that point and one side of the bifurcation was pruned off. In mid-June, the lowest branch marked in yellow should be cut back to 4 leaves. The long branch moving left/ marked yellow in the image above, and the branch moving right/ marked yellow should also be pruned back to 2 leaves. The leader, above these 2 branches and marked in yellow, should be pruned back to a leaf that points in the direction you want the leader to grow. This is called 'directional pruning'. Example: With the above pruning cut made, the new branch (shows as a leaf only, but it's a new branch) in the axil of the leaf on the right will want to grow to the right. If you wanted the new leader to move left, you would prune lower, to just above the leaf on the left. A cut above the leaf attached to the severed part would give rise to a branch growing away from the grower. Because there are other forces in play, like phototropism (tendency for plants to bend toward the brightest light source), there is no guarantee the branch will grow where you wish, so you might need to encourage the new branch that forms in the axil of the leader's top leaf to grow where YOU want it to. I mentioned this already, but I'll reiterate that your tree will respond to pruning with a much higher degree of enthusiasm if you do the pruning A) while the tree's energy reserves are highest, and B) when the tree's current ability to carry on photosynthesis is peaking, both of which will occur during the summer solstice (21 June). 'Father's Day' is easy to remember. If you intend to repot, do it at the same time you prune. While you could probably remove a little soil to cut through (2 cuts) the kinked root that emerges from and returns too the soil, I would do it at the same time you prune the top. Reason: Pruning the top decreases the volume of foliage the roots must work to keep hydrated. It also makes it less likely that a branch on the same side of the tree where the kinked root is attached will die. When a tree is unable to keep certain parts hydrated, it sheds those parts. Unfortunately, they seem to always choose to shed parts the grower feels are essential to the o/a composition/ shape/ style of the tree. Some trees, like junipers/ yews/ arborvitae/ .... , develop a dedicated relationship between individual roots and branches, such that damage to a particular root will kill a particular branch. Notice the live veins connecting roots to individual branches below: This tree ^^^ has 4 branches and 4 live veins. Other trees lack the direct relationship between particular roots and branches. For the genus Ficus, the relation is moderate, but the lower a branch is (and the shorter the tree is) the greater the likelihood that death of a branch or root will result in the dieback of it's counterpart on the opposite side of the root to shoot connection. When serious about earning a green thumb, the largest step a container gardener can take in that direction will come from understanding how water behaves in container media and what that means to the health of your plants' root systems; this, because issues with root function and/or health cause the most problems by far, with some of them seemingly unrelated to root health. Two examples that lend support to the later contention are infections by disease pathogens and insect predation due to a less than robust metabolic rate, caused by limited root function or poor root health. A healthy plant will remain forever elusive unless and until we are able to maintain root systems in an elevated state of vitality (health). Al

Pics aren't clear enough, but I see oedema and possibly mechanical injury (or more oedema) on the leaf margins in the second 2 pictures. Can't tell what the dark spot is in the top picture, but if it's scale, it's easily removed with a fingernail, wooden skewer, or similar tool. If it's scale, it won't leave a 'crater'. Al

Relatively speaking, you can't overwater these plants. These plants love water. In fact, they crave it. With that being said, they don't love being in waterlogged, soggy soil. As long as their roots can breathe, their soil isn't packed in too tightly, and the water can freely drain away, then you'll never have to worry about providing them with too much water. Mine goes through so much water so fast, that during these hot summer months, I'll occasionally let the whole pot sit in a bucket of water overnight. The next day, I'll drain away the water before flushing out the whole pot with plenty of fresh water until the runoff from the bottom begins to run clear. Not only that, but I grow it in a self-watering pot with a small reservoir on the bottom. I'll flush out the runoff water from it and fill it up with fresh water, and it'll be gone by the next day. This "monster's" appetite for water is almost insatiable. As for the leaf problems, I'd have to guess that it may be from not giving it enough water. Have I mentioned the fact that these plants love water? I can't remember, lol. Oedema isn't something that you'll ever have to worry about with this plant. Any excess water is expelled from the leaves through a process called guttation. You'll see tiny drops form along the perimeter of each leaf, and these will naturally fall away. Whenever I move my Monstera, a bunch of these drops fall all over the place. When I brought my plant back inside for the winter, I had it placed on an elevated shelf that is situated over my flatscreen television and home entertainment center. I mention this because I had to place a folded up paper towel over part of the back of my television, because so many of these drops were falling down the back of it. But with the paper towel there, each of these drops was quickly absorbed and dried up before the next ones fell. Here's a photo that I've shared on here many times. In it, I have my Monstera soaking in a bucket of water. As you can see, it's growing roots like crazy and has completely filled in the whole entire pot. Despite me soaking it overnight and draining it the next morning, the very next day, it'll have already completely dried back out. As I've mentioned earlier, these plants crave water. Just don't leave them sitting (for too long) in water. Their roots still need to breathe.

Not oedema, and it will self-solve. Al