QUESTION for you, PLEASE
Pat Z5or6 SEMich
8 months ago
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Pat Z5or6 SEMich
8 months agoRelated Discussions
*Bill Vincent -- a question for you please*
Comments (7)As for the "chiseled edge" tile, is this natural stone, or is this ceramic with a scalloped edge? I ask because alot of times one will be mistaken for the other, and if it IS scalloped (wavy edges), put a carpenter's square up to the tile, and you'll see the outermost edges form a perfect right angle (or atleast they SHOULD). If that's the case, I'd set them with 1/8" between those outermost edges. If not, let me know, and I'll go back to square one! :-)...See MoreIgloochic - question for you please re painting cabinets.
Comments (2)LOL As I typed that I knew it was going to confuse people and almost left it out. Ok let's see if I can manage a mental picture. First, you need door with a hole in them (some don't have them) but let's assume you have those. I took metal cloths hangers (you could use any strong wire but I'd seen this in an automotive shop so I copied it) and looped one end over a board that I'd layed crossways on the garage rafters. (So you have the lower hanging portion of the eves...the part that forms the ceiling if you put sheet rock on it?) I layed that small board (maybe a 1x1 type thing...scrap wood) and hung one end of the fully extended hanger (taken apart) from the board shaped like a hook, then the other end would have a hook as well which you'd draw through the door hole. You don't want that door hole hook end to extend too far out of the door, and you want to kind of fix it manually so that the metal isn't touching the door where it hangs out. This all sounds more confusing than it is, but I'm trying to cover my bases. Basically you want to be able to paint around it without leaving a mark on the door. It only took me one door to fuss this out while working on it, then it was easy. If the door is really large or heavy, two hooks might be necessary, but I prefer to do those on saw horses. This only works for the painting portion by the way...cleaning or sanding (which you know I don't do) is too rough and will pull the doors off the hangers. The reason I like to paint doors this way is that I can get the primer on pretty easily on both sides (do one full side on all the doors you have to do, then do the second side on all the doors). If you are doing them laying down, you really need to wait 24 hours before rolling them over to do the second side because the paint won't cure and they'll stick to the surface you're working with, or take impressions from it. You want to be careful not to have too much paint on your brush as you work so that you don't drip, especially right close to the wires, but that's how you should paint a door anyhoo (with a reasonable amount of paint but never dripping off the brush). Did that explain it???? It probably wouldnt work if you don't have the cross rafter beam things (I used every name I could think of...I'm not a builder LOL) that are down at 8 foot or so. Unless you use two hangers looped together or buy actual strong wire to work with....See MoreDaisyAdair: Stair question for you, please!!??
Comments (10)Les, I think that is what we are going to have to do, and allnighter. Nothing new, actually, that is/was the only way we ever got anything done around here when they were babies. They are all in bed by 8pm, so it could definitely work! I read an article that suggested the every-other-step technique, but I still don't think my kids would follow that LOL!! Not that they are old enough to, but they would just forget and be trampling all over them!! My plan for today is to get the paint from SW for the treads (we are using the same Swiss Coffee on the risers and balusters that is already in the foyer). I am getting REALLY excited, but very nervous at the same time! I founf this pic on RMS of someone who also did this... looks beautiful! She used a black, which looks stunning, but I still adore the black-brown route:...See MoreBill V or others? Slate question for you (please)!
Comments (7)Bill! What a timely post this is - I've been meaning to ask you a very similar question. Wish I'd had time to take pictures first. I also have a brick fireplace, unpainted, with a wooden mantle surround. I want to tile it with granite tiles. My questions were: 1. Unmodified thinset or modified? I thought you're supposed to use unmodified with stone, but then again, modified on vertical surfaces. Based on your previous answer, I'm guessing modified? Recommendations? 2. The brick is in pretty good shape and smooth, but of course the mortar lines aren't completely even with the brick. Should there be an attempt to fill in mortar lines first, or skim coat, or should back-buttering be sufficient? 3. Caulk in between the wood mantle and brick portion of the fireplace? I know you're supposed to use caulk between wood and tile due to expansion, but wasn't sure how crucial it would be here. I'm horrible at caulking and want the grout lines and caulk lines as small as possible! 4. here's where I really need to take a picture to illustrate... But I have 7 1/2 inches between the surround and the fireplace opening (no metal insert, nothing like that) and 10 1/2 inches from the mantle bottom to the opening. This should make cutting 12 inch tiles really fun, since I can't use whole ones anywhere! I'm unsure whether to just the front or to go in about three inches inside to cover the side of the front brick, which you can see if you're looking at the fireplace from either side. I guess that's what I need to do, I'm just not sure how! Would I lay down thin strips there and caulk between the planes? Obviously, I don't want to get carried away tiling the inside of the fireplace, but I guess I should cover that red brick that's visible. I wish I had a picture ready so you could help me with layout ideas, LOL. I'm thinking I'll go up the sides and all the way to the top with the same width as the sides, and then cut the few tiles in between either side down so that they're equal. Or should I regard that top section as separate from the sides and cut accordingly? In other words, if the width at top is 50 inches, would you have your left and right tile match the 71/2 side legs or address the sides separately? Which will look better. The mantle is white and this is on a gold wall - I'm thinking maybe black galaxy because the black will look great and the gold should complement the wall well, but maybe it will look too showy and I'd be better with something like absolute black? There's a hearth recessed into the wood floor in front of the fireplace and it's multi-color slate. I'm not sure why I'm not continuing the slate, really. Oh, any recommendations for grout if I do the black galaxy?...See Moretsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
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