This forum used to have some real experts in KBG varieties, but they have moved on. One thing you should know about seed is you get what you pay for. All the seed you see at the box stores has a component of weed and other crop in it. The percentage you see listed in the guaranteed analysis is by weight. The really bad news is good seed is heavy and weed seed is light. In fact the worst weeds, common bermuda and bentgrass, have seeds the size of dust. Those seeds weigh one eight-millionth of a pound - meaning a pound has 8 million seeds in it. In a 10-pound bag of good KBG you could have 0.10% weed and get a full lawn of weeds. More expensive seed will have 0.00% weed and other crop listed on the label. Most weeds can be gotten rid of but bermuda and bentgrass are toughies. I'd spend the money for better seed. It is usually sold online only. Another thing you should be aware of is that spring is a bad time of year to be seeding a lawn. Why? Because the crabgrass seed is sitting there waiting to get enough water to sprout. If you are watering enough for grass seed, that is more than enough for crabgrass seed. That is why fall is the recommended time of year to seed new grass. Crabgrass dies in the fall so you have all fall and winter to establish your turf before the crabgrass tries to return. Spring is also a poor time because the new grass roots don't have time to become established and able to resist the summer heat. You may dodge that bullet with your location. With those thoughts in mind, go ahead and seed now and hope for the best. Anything that happens can be corrected in the fall. Please don't till your soil before seeding. No matter what your soil is like, the best thing to do for it is to get grass growing. Clear off the current vegetation with a verticutter (power rake, slit seeder, or other similar tool). Blow or rake off the litter, scatter the seeds, roll them down, and water daily, 3x per day (10 minutes only), for 3 weeks. If you really want to improve the soil, look at the organic forum. If you don't care about that, then just be careful about using exactly the recommended amount of fertilizer on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Going too heavy with chemicals is much worse than going too light. With organics it is looking like the reverse of that advice.

Perhaps someone else can help with the evergreens dilemma since I'm not aware of grass not growing because they were once there. If their former roots are near the surface, yes that will prevent grass from growing because it can impede root growth. However, it wouldn't prevent the seeds from germinating, plus you do have some plantlife there, after all. Lime amends the soil to bring the soil's pH into balance. The only way to really know if the soil needs lime is to have it tested. The test results will determine the need, how much to apply, and at what intervals to apply it. Whether your neighbor was correct in advising you to apply lime, I cannot be certain. But I imagine he is familiar with the soils in your area normally needing it. To help with your seeding problem, we will need more information. 1. Did you water the seeds often to keep them moist so they can germinate and grow? 2. Did you smother the seeds with lime? We will need a time factor or order of events to determine that since we don't know at what point you seeded and applied the lime. 3. Does the seeded area receive direct sunlight? Based on the information you've given us, I see no reason you won't be able to lay sod. With proper care, it should root and flourish. Where evergreens used to be, just make sure there are no roots left too near the soil surface.

Hi - With my zebra grass , it seems to multiply. The clumps get bigger every spring. I have not seen any seed. Good luck. tina_2

Dear bmorepanic, Thank you very much for your inquiry. Yours is a interesting case to say to the least. I am wondering about the shade issues back here in this garden area. Can you give me some more information? If the area is shady, Poa trivialis or Poa supina would be great choices in this area. Both of these are bluegrasses and will tolerate the damp, shady conditions. Please give me more environmental information if this does not help. Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more. Respectfully Trey Rogers The Yard Doctor