1) The pond is about 12 feet wide and the st on the surface and 25 feet long at the longest the surface. It is 5 feet deep at the deepest point but the width is considerabaly smaller at the bootom than at the top 2) The pond surface is at about the same level as some of the lower beds but it will not be used directly for the irrigation system. 3) The beds are already built and are terraced. 4) short answer no. However at any given time we will try to group plants with simmilar watering needs 5) No, However there is only so much water avaliable for the wole garden. We can't use up all the pon water or our fish will be very sad and our modest sized rainroof collection system might have a hard time filling the barrels. 6) I messured the beds today and they are about 8 ft X 5 ft for the most part. There are 8 beds that size and 1 bes that is 3 X 8. 7) the emmiters are non pressure compensating 1/2 GPH at 30 PSI 8) The drums will be linked and were planning on getting between 4- 6 (depends on how cheap we can find them for and how much water we can capture) 9) Average annual precipitation is 45 - 50 inchesdistributed as follows Jan 3.3 Feb 3 Mar 3.9 (APR 4 May 4.5 June 3.7 July 4 Aug 4 Sep 3.9 OCT 3.5) Nov 3.8 Dec 3.5 () growing season Currently the pond collects runoff from a 10 X 25 tarp plus its surface area. However, the roof with gutters for collecting rain will be over top of part of the tarp (approx 56 sq feet) Yes. Our club meets every week once a week nobody is at the garden to turn water n and off at other times. I found a 0 PSI timer and automatic rainshutoff. I think you misunderstood. It is not a community garden. Rather it is a college Club. (Organic Gardening Club) We hope that with the irrigation system we will be able to donate a box of produce a week to a local shelter plus have some extra for the members of the club. We want to do this from the 8 8 X 6 beds. We do have a few extra beds that I didn't include becuase we don't plan to irrigate them. Right now with hand watering once a week we get good production in the fall and froma few specific crops in the summer but many crops fail do to lack of moisture. Thanks for any help you can give.

Drip systems work best with "clean" water. The expense of a good filter system, drip equipment, etc. would make growing those vegetables almost prohibitive. As close as your creek is, why not use furrow irrigation? Way cheaper and clean water is not a concern. There isn't any reason to use overhead sprinklers for those crops and furrow irrigation would conserve water over using a sprinkler system. Just pump water to the head of the furrows and gravity will do the rest.

The black plastic "crankcase breather" operated fuel pump is made by Mikuni, and is almost universally used on Kohler, Briggs and some Honda engines. Older versions were aluminum, and repairable. I just replaced a plastic one (fuel supply nipple broke off) with a low pressure (2 to 3.5 psi) electric fuel pump made by Facet-Purolator. Usually a stock item at NAPA, their part number is BK.610-1052, cost about $45, or the same as full retail on the Mikuni pump. Cube shaped, looks like a doorbell transformer. Nice heavy-duty unit, "Coast Guard Approved" , comes with brass fittings. Tapped into the 12v wire to the carburetor fuel shut off solenoid. The new pump has rubber plugs in the fuel ports to keep it clean prior to installation. The rubber plugs happen to fit the valve cover hole formerly used by the original pump's "crankcase breather" (air pulse) tube, making substitution even easier. In line filter should be used on the pump's input side. No difference in operation, engine runs very strong. I see no reason this electric pump could not be used on any electric starter (generator) equipped small HP engine. A few others have also posted using this option, sounds fairly commonplace. Here is a link that might be useful: [Facet low-pressure cube type pump](http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(n2iztqem5evtq5edc1ncjf45))/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6101052_0067284080)

Also appreciate the link Randy. I've been using a vertical 1000 gal tank set on a 3' high stand and it has worked well for me. I only use it to fertilize via driptape lines, usually 6- 100' lines at a time. I fill the tank over a few intervals to avoid drawing too much grit from my well, then disolve CaNO3 in bucket of water and dump into the top of tank before opening valves. It avoids headaches with the Dosatron injector and does the job. Even using water pressure at 10 lbs on driplines I noticed my distant (100') soil was always more watered and when I discussed with a irrig. rep. was told that I probably have a slight terrain slope and that when the water is turned off the remaining water still drains to the lowest spot on the grade. I've seen a research setup by a PSU prof. where a 5-gal. bucket was hung at 5 ft. on a post to water a short section by drip tape and it was reported to work well. I'll add that if you can position a tank on a hill above watering land you'll achieve the height without a stand. I plan to haul water to a stationary tank 1500 ft. from a water source and just use a tractor mounted tank and PTO pump to fill the tank as needed. That may work for you too.