Using Sulfur to Amend Soil Creates Very Non-Uniform pH
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months ago
last modified: 10 months ago
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westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agoRelated Discussions
Correcting soil with pH 7.15 for acid loving perennials?
Comments (13)I'd use iron sulfate before I'd use aluminum sulfate, but neither will have as much effect as sulfur. I may be wrong, but I think the main reason that iron sulfate is faster acting than sulfur is because one of the effects of high pH is iron deficiency. The iron sulfate doesn't bring the pH down nearly as much, but unless you've got pH like David52 and I have, the iron sulfate will provide some readily available iron right away (around here, the pH is high enough that the iron in iron sulfate is not available). Something that can very quickly (and very temporarily) lower the pH are to add a quart or twoo of vinegar to a 5 gallon bucket of water and use that to water. If there are pool supply places nearby, you can probably buy some granules that can be added to the water to drop the pH in pools. I think most of these have sulfur in them and turn the water into either sulfurous or sulfuric acid. If you get really desperate, you can use muriatic acid (I think it's something like 15-20% HCL). If you use muriatic acid, make sure to add the acid to the water and not the other way around. These approaches are fast, but very temporary. With your weather and native soil, a temporary fix may be enough, since that'll give time for the soil to move toward the norm for your area. Karen--A number of things contribute to making soils either acidic or alkaline. Weather is actually a big factor. Areas that get a lot of rainfall tend to have more acidic soil and areas that are arid tend to have alkaline soil. This is mostly due to the minerals and elements that get washed away with the water (somewhat related to this, arid areas often suffer from problems with salt buildup). In recent years, the acidifying effect of rain has become even more pronounced where acid rain is an issue. There are other factors, as well. For example, there are areas in Colorado and Utah that have acidic soil despite being arid. The reason is that the soil content is mostly crushed granite. I would assume that southern Ohio gets enough water, so your alkalinity must be due to the makeup of the soil itself....See MoreLower Soil pH
Comments (18)Phosphoric acid, nitric (muriatic) acid, sulfuric acid or citric acid are used to lower pH of water. Vinegar is too weak because high pH water is buffered by minerals. Food Grade Phosphoric Acid is used in commercial greenhouse operations. Although no acid is "safe" and all must be handled with care, nitric and sulphuric acid are dangerous. Citric is expensive. Food Grade Phosphoric Acid adds phosphorus, ppm, to the water. If the water is very hard or a person is using triple phosphate fertilizers then care must be taken not to exceed the plant limits. Water hardness and pH are related but not the same. pH is a measure of the acid or base. Hardness is a measure of the buffering ability of the dissolved minerals in the water. The type and quantity of dissolved minerals in some water requires more acid to lower the pH than water that might have a different mineral composition. The people over at the hydroponic forum can be very helpful for specific questions about water pH, raising and lowering. This post was edited by lucky123 on Thu, Aug 21, 14 at 0:11...See MorepH question: charcoal as soil amendment
Comments (68)@John, I wasn't trying to pass judgment and apologise if it sounded that way. Just discussing. A meandering discussion: I was trying to draw a distinction between air pollution (e.g. particulate matter) which burning wood does cause; and greenhouse gases on the other. (I was mostly making this point in the context of the charcoal-in-soil issue - where making charcoal may not produce much CO2 but sure does produce air pollution) Air pollution: there are contexts in which burning wood makes sense and for those in more rural locations - I understand it; but it does produce air pollutants like particulate matter that have negative health effets - but concentration matters therefore distance etc from others matters. (I still think gas preferable if available from air pollution perspective but I'm not passing judgment - unless you live next door to me and are burning your wet leaves, in which case you'll definitely hear from me). Greenhouse gas discussion a lot more complex - I won't pretend to know how to best calculate GG trade-off between eg wood and gas, and if you need heat, you need to get it from somewhere. (Apart from other issues, methane leakage from pipelines and production probably worse than the CO2 from burning it). Not everyone gets cheap electric heat from hydro (including me). I was only making the point that when trees rot, not all gets converted into CO2, and how long it takes to get turned into CO2 matters from a GG/climate perspective. But that doesn't say much, the choice isn't usually burn it or leave it on the ground, but rather burn it or get the heat from some other source, and that other source matters. (And there are other factors like cost) And I'm just discussing here. I have an occasional wood fire for pleasure, I'm not a fanatic....See MoreSoil pH and fixing
Comments (5)well you approached the problem right by checking the ph first. as stated above, 6.0 - 8.0 will support almost anything. 8-10inches dries fast in az, maybe try raising the beds another 8 inches? sounds like you need to rotate your crops. your soil is probably totally depleted from the first year- especially in 8-10 inches of soil. ive never been able to grow anything in the same spot 2 years in a row except lettuce. corn, tomatoes- forget it. actually most of my tomatoes got blossom end rot from calcium deficiancy before the first season was even done so this will be a seasonal fight. if ph is close to neutral, then i would try to bust some of that caliche and add as much organic matter as possible and you should be ok. i make my own compost in a rubbermaid container from walmart w/ a lid. fill with anything that is natural and can rot. i.e. banana peels, apple peels, any fruit period, crushed egg shells, spent coffee grounds are great, leaves, last seasons dead crop, try to avoid sticks unless they're mulched. no meat, no wrappers, no metal, no animal poo, etc, you will need to stir once a month and keep moist. container will get warm during decomposition, be sure to decomp first. this saved my garden last year. look for worms- thats a sign things are getting better. for now you can buy it at H.D. mycorrhizal fungi is my new kick, check it out. http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenprimer/a/Amending_Soil.htm http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=NEGRM16 best deal ive seen so far for mycorrhizae...See Morewestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agolast modified: 10 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agolast modified: 10 months agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
10 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
10 months agolast modified: 10 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UKwestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
10 months agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
9 months agolast modified: 9 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked davidrt28 (zone 7)westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
9 months agolast modified: 9 months agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
9 months agolast modified: 9 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked davidrt28 (zone 7)davidrt28 (zone 7)
9 months agolast modified: 9 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked davidrt28 (zone 7)
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)