How is running water metered, exactly?
Scott Jacoby
11 months ago
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11 months agoRelated Discussions
teeing off at water meter
Comments (2)I usually run 1" sched 40 for anything that is constantly pressurized (up to the zone valves) and 1" class 200 for the individual zones. 3/4" really is insufficient to generate enough flow, especially on the supply side. Lots of ways to tee off after the meter, most times ya splice off the blue 1" potable water line with a compression fitting....See MoreWater meter sizing and how it affects WH tank output
Comments (16)If you have a 1 inch service line there is no reason you can't have a 1 inch meter/backflow installed. The cost is a little more for the meter and backflow but it easier for the crew since all the parts are same size. They will have to install reducers and adapters to make the 3/4 meter, bf, and regulators work with the 1 inch service line. If you pay the extra cost for the 1 inch parts I'm sure somebody can make it happen. When you make the run from the meter to the house stay away from the 1.25 inch stuff if possible. It's not very common anymore and sometimes hard to get the parts when you need to fix it. 1.5 is way more common. Bury the pipe at least 18 inches deep (about 2ft is ideal) so it won't freeze or break when a vehicle drives over it. Once all this is swapped over and working there will be some air and discoloration in your plumbing. It's normal so just flush all your faucets and bathtubs for a while....See More? Max flow out of a 5/8' water meter?
Comments (7)Outdoor, before my rusty galvanized main ¾" pipe enters the house I only get 7GPM, HOWEVER that is also from a hose bib which is probably not a full flow valve. At the hose bib in my back yard (after the water runs through the rusty pipes underneath the house) I only get 5 GPM. That is why I cannot even run a 3 sprinkler head circuit (the watering radious is an anemic 5 !!?). I know that my pipes are old corroded galvanized, they need to be replaced anyway and are probably the main source of my water flow-pressure issues. But that, precisely, makes me also wonder whether the cityÂs ¾" (or whatever diameter it is) supply line, is perhaps also galvanized and also corroded, since they are from the same late Â50s era. As a prelude to this repiping project I am considering just replacing the main line to my house first. That will give me a chance to disonnect my main line and measure how many GPM I get using a bucket and timer RIGHT OUT OF THE METER. But what if I, say, get only 8 GPM at the meter? Do I go to the city and say my water supply is inadeguate because of old meter/rusty city pipes? I am aware of the complementary relationship between pressure and flow. If I can get even 10 GPM and still maintain 20 PSI that would be adequate for my sprinkler system which has 4 circuits with 3 sprinkler heads each (no more than 7 GPM per circuit @20PSI - per sprinkler head specs). In any case, since I will start this replumbing project by first replacing the main line from the meter to the house, does using 1" copper as a main seem adeguate under the circumstances?...See MoreIndirect water heater running out of hot water.
Comments (4)I had a conversation with a local pro, and he believes adding a mixing valve and turning the aquastat up from 100* to something like 140* will do wonders. He said it's normal in any water heater to have much higher temps at the top and lower at the bottom, with the average around the aquastat setting, meaning we have ours turned way down. I'll give that a try. On the DHW priority wiring, I'm having a little difficulty finding straightforward info. Most diagrams/discussions include so many references to controllers and various models of components that I can't tell what the basic schematic should be. Here is my current setup:We have a single circ pump controlled by the boiler control. I just learned that the "DHW End Switch" terminal in my boiler goes to the HydroStat controller and only bypasses the thermal targeting in order to get full power from the boiler during DHW demand. My plan now is to simply add a DPDT relay (in red below) with the coil powered by the aquastat, that disconnects the signal to the two heating zone valves from their thermostats. This will will close those valves while the DHW is heating and create the priority setup. Anyone see any problems with this setup?...See MoreScott Jacoby
11 months agoScott Jacoby
11 months agodadoes
11 months agoScott Jacoby
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agokudzu9
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agoA Mat
11 months agoJake The Wonderdog
11 months agoScott Jacoby
10 months ago
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