Drip irrigation placement for a row of bougainvillea
Louisa
12 months ago
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Comments (3)I attached a collection of advice on monthly planting from Cathy Cromell that I keep. There are links to monthly planting calenders at the end. You might check these out as well: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html http://squarefootgardening.org/ - You can use your native soil...it will just contain weed and grass seeds. The good news, if you are using you native soil it is superb. High pH but not so high as to keep the garden from producing. Low in carbon and there lies the rub. You should completely mix in a finished compost into the soil. Plants only need about 2% free carbon to do very well. Unfortunately our soils are often around 0.5%. 5% is considered ideal, but considerably more is fine. Generally our soils are low in nitrogen too but adding the finished compost can correct that too. Pioneers Sandy Loam should have adequate carbon and nitrogen and few contaminating seeds. Row or Square Foot? Mulch lightly and build up (add) as plants grow taller with straw. Drip irrigation: Recommend using in line emitters with built in pressure compensation as they don't clog. This is just an example, not an endorsement of this vendor: http://www.wateryourlandscape.com/dripirrigation/products/emittertubing Local seed: Seed Trust, VPA, Native Seed Search Growing season is year round here. As you surmised some things at different times. Some annuals will even survive the winter and summer and keep on producing for 2, 3 or more years. As a very general rule pick seeds with a 75 day or less plant to harvest as out warm season turns to hot and back to warm in fairly short order. The link below and the instructions on the seed packet with regard to planting depth are likely all you need. Mel Bartolomew's paperback on "Square Foot Gardening" (can be found at $12 in Walmart's Garden Center section) has some pretty great general gardening for beginners advice in between his touting SFG to death. This too: http://www.amazon.com/Desert-Gardening-Beginners-Vegetables-Flowers/dp/0965198723 You should start a compost pile or two for replenishing nutrients removed when you harvest/remove annuals for replacement. Otherwise gardening becomes very expensive over time with fertilizers and amendments that are unnecessary unless you are in the business of selling such things. Hopefully you don't live too near the edge of town or rabbits and javalina will be a problem. Here is a link that might be useful: Vegetable Monthly Planting Maricopa Co. This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Thu, Feb 20, 14 at 21:09...See MoreSoaker hose placement
Comments (12)my point... if you have them.. use them up but if you are going to invest in replacement ... go higher quality ... the drip irrigation i have.. has lasted a decade... initial upfront cost would be offset by repeated replacement costs ... i still cant remember the name of the stuff i have.. but its the same as the stuff at the link ... the key is that each emitter allows a specific amount of water .. across the entire length ... ina given time... e.g. so if it drip .25 gals per hour.. you can put down one gal in 4 hours .... BUT!!! .... what you soil needs... can only be determined by you... ah ha.. i use TECHLINE by netafim .. such as at this link: http://www.sprinklersupplystore.com/Netafim-Techline-CV-Drip-Tubing-s/675.htm check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCSYeCyuM3c and just so there is no confusion.. the emitters are built into the line ... mine is fully winterproof ... i can offer much assistance... but i am not willing to simply type a thesis on such.. if you are interested in going in this direction... i will help thru GW posts ... and if i ever fail to come back and answer ... just use my members page.. to send me a link back to the post i lost ... finally... ALL mine is above ground.. and above the mulch .... after a short while.. you ignore it ... and any garden visitors are intrigued by it... its something to talk about ... but the reason i do such.. is ambient moisture... i need some humidity for the plant.. on my hot sand ... i can really see a difference .... as to leaf surface damage.. if i bury the lines completely ... and for those of you who use sprinklers.. ponder this.. you lose maybe 50% of what your sprinkler shoots into the air .. by evaporation.... so you are paying to water the air.... you can deliver more water.. more efficiently.. w/o the waste cost ... and that should be considered in your upfront cost ... let me see if i can find a picture of it laying on top.. and very frankly.. ask you if you would have fixated on it.. rather than the plant display ... and be honest ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link...See MoreGrowing in Containers in Oklahoma
Comments (16)Melissa, You're welcome. Here's the list of vegetable varieties suitable for growing in containers. This is not an all-inclusive list but it does give you several options for each type of vegetable on the list. With certain vegetables, like bush beans, for example, literally any variety available can be grown in containers. With tomatoes, literally any variety can be grown in containers, although the larger the mature size of the plant, the larger the container it will need. This year, I had several varieties of tomatoes, including Chocolate Stripes, Momotaro, Tropic and Red Defender reach 7' in height in molasses feed tub containers, which probably hold about 20 gallons of soil. Many other tomato plants, including Scarlet Red, Glacier, Sophie's Choice, New Big Dwarf and Red Defender reached about 3 to 4' or so in 7-gallon containers. Still others, including Ildi, Sioux, San Marzano Redorta, and Yellow Ball reached a height of 5' or taller in kitty litter buckets that hold about 5 gallons of soil. All of the container-grown plants produced heavily all season long. So, matching your plants' ultimate size to a container of the right size pays off. If I know where the seeds are usually offered online, I mention the company. However, some companies haven't updated their websites for 2010 so I can't say that they'll have the seed for 2010, just that they usually have it. Dawn Here's the abbreviations for the sources: BCHS = Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds www.rareseeds.com BURP = Burpee Seeds www.burpeeseeds.com CG = The Cook's Garden www.cooksgarden.com CON = Containerseeds.com (I only listed broccoli for this company but it probably has many of the varieties on this list) JSCH = John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds www.kitchengardenseeds.com NIC = Nichols Garden Nursery www.nicholsgardennursery.com PARK = Park Seed www.parkseed.com PINE = Pinetree Seeds www.superseeds.com VS = Victory Seeds www.Victoryseeds.com SSE = Seed Savers Exchange www.seedsavers.org SESE = Southern Exposure Seed Exchange www.southernexposure.com TGSC = Tomato Growers Supply Company www.tomatogrowers.com TT = Totally Tomatoes www.totallytomatoes.com BEANS: Roma II (BCHS, VS, BUR) Contender (BCHS, VS, BUR) Top Crop (VS) Gina (romano type) (NIC) Provider (PINE, SESE, SSE, BUR) Tendergreen (PINE, SSE) Bush Blue Lake (BCHS, BUR, PINE, SESE) Sequioia Purple Roma (BUR) Royalty Purple Pod (BCHS, NIC, PINE, SSE, SESE) Golden Wax Improved (VS) BEANS, LIMA Thorogreen (NIC) Henderson Bush (BCHS, PINE, SESE) Bush Jackson Wonder (BCHS, SESE) Fordhook 242 (SESE) BEETS Red Ace (PINE) Golden Globe (BUR, SSE) Cylindra (BCHS, BUR, NIC, PINE, SSE) Ruby Queen (PINE, VS) Burpee's Red Ball (BUR) Bull's Blood (highly ornamental foliage) (BUR) BROCCOLI Early Dividend (Territorial Seed used to carry it but I haven't bought it in several years so don't know if they still do.) Small Miracle (PARK, CON) Packman (NIC) CABBAGE Gonzales Mini-Cabbage (PINE) Red Acre (SESE, VS) Golden Acre (VS) Savoy Express (JSCH) Primero Red (JSCH) Caraflex (JSCH) CARROTS Adelaide Baby (JSCH) Short 'N Sweet (BUR) Thumbelina (BUR) Little Finger (PINE, VS) Minicor (JSCH, NIC) Mokum (PINE) Parisian/Tonda di Parigi (PINE) Red-Cored Chantenay (BUR, VS) Improved Nantes (VS) Scarlet Nantes (VS) Parmex (JSCH, CG) CAULIFLOWER: Early Snowball (SESE) Igloo (PINE) CHARD: any---they all get about the same size CORN (SWEET): Early Sunglow (BUR, NIC) Blue Jade (dwarf) (SSE) Quickie (PINE) Golden Bantam (BUR, SESE) CUCUMBER: Salad Bush (NIC, PINE, TT, BUR) Spacemaster (PINE, BUR, SESE) Bush Champion (BUR) Fanfare (TT) Picklebush (BUR) Bush Crop (PINE, VS) Homemade Pickles (PINE, VS, TT) Muncher (PINE) Bush Pickle (TT) Ellen's Family White (pickling) (SESE) Arkansas Little Leaf H-19 (pickling) (SESE) EGGPLANT: Bambino (BUR, CG) Fairy Tale (BUR, NIC)) Long Purple (BUR) Slim Jim (PINE) Raveena (PINE) White Fingers (PINE) Applegreen (BCHS, SESE, SSE) Casper (SSE) Diamond (SSE) Neon (CG) LETTUCE: any, but here's some of the more compact ones Tom Thumb (heads get tennis-ball sized) (NIC, SESE, VS) Little Gem (VS) Tennis Ball (SESE) This variety was grown by Thomas Jefferson at Monticello Bronze Mignonette (VS) Buttercrunch (SESE) MELONS: These would need large containers--nothing smaller than the size of a half-whiskey barrel or child's wading pool. Old stock tanks are great for growing melons too. Minnesota Midget (BCHS, SSE) Green Machine (BCHS) Sleeping Beauty (BCHS) OKRA: Little Lucy (NIC, PARK) Baby Bubba (BUR) Pitre's Short Bush Red Cowhorn 3' tall (BCHS) Vidrine's Midget Cowhorn Okra (BCHS) Choppee (SESE) Dwarf Green Long Pod (VS) ONION: any short-day or intermediate types or any bunching types PEAS: Little Marvel (SESE) Sugar Bon (BUR) Snowbird Snow Pea (BUR) Knight (PINE) Lincoln (aka Homestead) DeGrace Snow Pod (BCHS) Oregon Sugar Pod II Snow Pea (BCHS) Wando (BUR, SESE, VS) Laxton's Progress No. 9 (VS) Sugar Ann (SESE, VS) Dwarf Gray Sugar (BUR, SESE, VS) Tom Thumb (SESE) Oregon Trail (NIC) Sugar Spring (NIC) PEPPERS: almost any pepper can be grown in containers, but these few listed here are especially compact Hot: Biker Billy Jalapeno (BUR) Pizza (NIC, TT) Super Chile (TT) TAM Jalapeno #1 (TT) Thai Demon Red (NIC) Medium: Tangerine Dream (BUR) Blushing Beauty (TT) Redskin Red Bell (TT) Mini Belle Mix (TT) Mini Bell Choc (TT) Mini Bell Yellow (TT) POTATOES any fingerling type like Russian Banana, Austrian Crescent, etc. Red Pontiac or Red Norland any other potato can be grown in very large containers PUMPKINS Cheyenne Bush (SSE) Orange Smoothie (semi-determinate) (BUR, PINE) Jack-B-Little (trellised) (BCHS, NIC, PINE) Wee-B-Little (trellised) (NIC, PINE) RADISHES: any type excet the very large winter radishes or the very long Daikon types Cherry Belle (PINE, NIC, SESE, VS) French Breakfast/Early French Breakfast (BCHS, NIC, PINE, VS) Easter Egg II Blend (TT) White Hailstone (BCHS, PINE, VS) Pink Beauty (BCHS, BUR) Purple Plum (BCHS, SSE, VS) Early Scarlet Globe (VS) SQUASH (Summer): Peter Pan Green Scallop (BUR) Sunburst Scallop (PINE) Saffron (PINE) Eight Ball (NIC, PINE) Greyzini (NIC) Ronde De Nice (PINE) Cocozelle (NIC, PINE) Early White Bush Scallop (VS) Yellow Bush Scallop (VS) Papaya Pear (NIC, PINE) SQUASH (Winter): Bon Bon (NIC) Butterbush (BUR) Autumn Glow Butternut (BUR) Bush Table Queen (BUR, SESE) Bush Buttercup (BCHS) Early Acorn (BUR) Cornell's Bush Delicata (NIC, PINE) Blue Baby Hubbard (BUR) TOMATOES: You can grow some ultra-small tomato plants in containers as small as 4" (Red Robin or Micro-Tom), in hanging baskets (Tumbler, Tumbling Tom, Florida Basket) and in larger 5 to 20-gallon containers, taking care to put Determinates in 5 to 10 gallon containers and Indeterminates in 7 to 20+ containers. Here's some varieties that do well in containers. Micro-Tom (TGSC) Florida Basket (TGSC) Elfin (TGSC) Small Fry (TGSC, TT) Tiny Tim (TT) Tumbler (TT, BUR) Tumbling Tom Red (PINE, TT, TGSC) Tumbling Tom Yellow (PINE, TT, TGSC) Balcony (CG) Red Robin (TT) Orange Pixie (NIC, TGSC) Canary Yellow (TGSC) Totem (TGSC) Patio VF (TT) Patio Princess (BUR) Window Box Roma (NIC, TGSC) Bush Early Girl (BUR, PIN, TGSC) Better Bush (PINE) Bush Big Boy (BUR) Bush Goliath (PINE, TT) Bush Beefsteak (TT, TGSC) Bushsteak (BUR) Martino's Roma (PINE, TT) Sweet Baby Girl (BUR, NIC, TGSC) Lime Green Salad (BCHS, TGSC, VS) New Big Dwarf (TGSC) Southern Night (a rare black determinate since most black tomatoes are indeterminate) (TGSC) Green Grape (TGSC, VS) Glacier (SESE, TT, TGSC) Husky Red (TT,TGSC) Husky Cherry Red (TT,TGSC) Mountain Princess (BCHS, SESE) Sophie's Choice (SESE) Green Zebra (NIC, VS) Black Sea Man (TT) WATERMELON: You should grow these in containers no smaller than 20 gallons, such as whiskey half-barrels, children's wading pools, trash cans or stock tanks. Melons (and pumpkins too, in fact) need a lot of water and have very vigorous root systems so the large containers are necessary in order for them to do well. Bush Sugar Baby (BUR) Sugar Baby (BUR) Blacktail Mountain (BCHS) Golden Midget (BGHS) Yellow Doll (NIC)...See MoreIrrigation startup; need suggestions!
Comments (9)Hose spigots are on middle north side of house and near west corner of south side of house. The rectangles are stock tanks (3X8 X2' tall.) Those are my only raised beds. SB is Serviceberries. Blueberry patch is 3 rows of plants running east/west (at a slight tilt.) Total 23 plants. Thanks to anyone who has time to look at this!!! Ann...See MoreLouisa
11 months agoLouisa
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agodrinkmorewater
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
11 months agodrinkmorewater
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agolast modified: 11 months agoLouisa
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agoLouisa
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agoLouisa
11 months agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
11 months agoLouisa
11 months ago
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