SOS, or my tree
RoseMe SD
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RoseMe SD
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What is Wrong with my Cherry Tree? NJ
Comments (5)Christy: Is the nonperforming cherry tree by any chance a sweet cherry on a full-dwarfing rootstock such as Gisela 5? Weather may have played a role here, but it is much more likely that you have had a failure at the graft, which is common on dwarfing cherry rootstocks. I have lost several cherries on these dwarfing rootstocks, and won't be planting any more. There is not much of a distinction between dead and dying, and it sounds as if your cherry tree is dying. What leads you to believe the tree is still alive? A little green in the cambium layer? If the tree is not leafed out on May 18, that will soon go away and turn to brown. What was the source of this tree, and what, indeed, is the rootstock? As for your plums, it sounds as if the one in the container is not very happy, and may be checking out as well. If the one in the ground is doing well, the obvious solution is to plant them in the ground. Again, any tree, container or in-ground, that has not leafed out by May 18 in New Jersey is on its way out. There is really nothing you can do but watch and wait. I hope I am wrong and that your trees spring to life, but I am afraid I am not. Again, where did you get these trees? I am not sure what is meant by a "dwarf" plum. Plum rootstocks should all be pretty much the same. You may have planted trees that are inappropriate for your location, and that is why their source is of interest. You may be hearing from others who will tell you to be patient, that the trees will leaf out, etc. etc. It's always nice to hear some encouraging words, but I'm afraid I can't offer any. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MoreLawn service has girdled my trees. Need advice on replacement.
Comments (15)Personally, I don't like the looks of either, and at the least it would take 2-3 years to "heal", but could fail some time down the line. Which would mean replacement then, the responsible party may then claim no responsibility, and your delay in having a new plant established to do what you wanted in the first place. In addition, in the second pic there appears to be very small buds growing from just at ground level, if so, I take that as a bad sign the the tree is basically in panic mode and believes it is dying. Lastly, I see no sign of callus forming in either pic (maybe I'm missing it). In short I would try for replacement of them all. The responsible party can go to a tree farm and buy HEALTHY replacements there, assuming they actually have a business license. Again, you can bet yours aren't the only one's in this condition, and the responsible party needs motivation to do their job correctly. JMHO Arktrees...See MoreFinally, my first Sapodilla (Nispero) fruit!
Comments (6)I have some photos of my sapodilla (Makok) taken last yr when it was about 18 month old. I notice also that most of the flowers would drop, only very few would grow into fruits. There are lots of flowers on the plant right now. Last time I checked (yesterday ... LOL), there are three big fruits and some pea-size fruits. From this tree: BTW, does anyone know when to pick the fruit? Not until the 4th fruit that I got the perfect one. And that was because it dropped into my hand while gently pressed. The first pick was too green. The second one was on the ground and started rotting, and the third was too ripe....See MorePlease, anybody, help me with my fruit tree pruning...
Comments (0)We planted fruit trees in an abandoned lower lot left cleared by previous owners when we moved into our house approximately three years ago. We live in Halifax, NS, Canada. I have read a lot of online articles, government documents, and books related to pruning fruit trees, and they all cover roughly the same ground: how to/when to. I follow the directions as best I can re: when to prune, and techniques for cutting properly. What I am utterly lacking is any sense whether or not our trees, at 3 years old, look anything like they ought to. I have seen a few pieces of fruit here and there, but am not expecting any in the early years. I am just hoping somebody can look at these and say "Great, keep them going," or "What the #@$! have you done to your trees you callous butcher?!?!" I am going for the "modified leader" style. I am keeping the heads at about 8' or so (is that a good height?) And the directions for sucker removal and dead branch removal all make sense, and I can do that just fine. But the books also say to get rid of branches that are growing upwards of 60 degrees from the trunk... or branches overlapping each other... or branches growing back towards the trunk. Is that just for scaffolding branches? Or all subsequent offshoots? Because that would leave my pear trees practically barren. The books say to have 3 or 4 scaffold branches, evenly spaced around the tree, no more than 6" apart. Some articles show a ring of 3-4 scaffold branches around the tree every 6" all the way up the trunk; others show just 3 or 4 main branches period, from bottom to top. Which is it? So, here are my trees... please don't laugh. If they survive the insects again this year, maybe I can do better next time around... Image order is: Apples 1-4, Pears 5-6, and two shots of our solitary Cherry tree. Thanks everybody... any help is appreciated so very much......See MoreRoseMe SD
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