They are woodpeckers and could be just about any species of them. I had many more holes in a Korean pine a few years ago and in different places on all sides and heights of the trunk. I decided to cover all the areas with Doc Farwell's tree seal & it worked on the assumption that whichever woodpecker was attracted to that (and a Pinus densiflora was also struck) ...... that they would not care for the taste of the product. I used DF's grafting seal because that's what I had on my shelf. There are tree sealants made by Doc Farwell's, as well. I'd paint a swath 6" above and below those holes should you choose my route. Normally, sealants are discouraged but there was nothing else I could come up with. Dax

i would see no benefit to placing such around MATURE trees.. as the facts state ... but then, if i recall properly ... GA has been going thru some good droughts ... but frankly .. lets say you have a mature 100 year old tree ... WHERE WOULD YOU PUT THE BAGS .... at the trunk?? at the drip line ... in the neighbors yard.. where the feeder roots are????? and how many times would have to refill a 5 gallon bag for said tree ... to have any real impact ken

You cannot put any dirt up against the tree trunk at all if you want to avoid damaging it. Moist soil against the trunk will cause it to rot. If you really want flowers there I wouls suggest you use pots. Several pots placed around the base of the tree will have a similar effect without hurting the tree. I am somewhat concerned by the cement blocks you describe. Are they completly covering the soil around the base of the trees - extending out for many feet? Covering the roots of a tree can smother it. Covering it with a non pourous material, like cement blocks, will limit the amount of moisture reaching the roots and the weight of the blocks will compact the underlying soil. All that will cause the tree to decline and possibly die in a few years. Or did he build a well like wall around the base of the tree? That isn't as bad as covering the soil, but it can allow water to acumulate in the well and that will eventually kill the tree (hopefully he included drainage channels?). If the well isn't wide enough, the trunk area inside the well is a constantly damp environment leading to rot. The trunk needs to be dry. Ideally wells should be as wide as the drip line. BP

I grew the avocado sapling from a seed and planted it outdoors in a sunny location that gets windy in the afternoon. I followed your advice and removed the paper, but the abrasion is on a narrow, fragile trunk, 1" maybe 1"1/2 diameter, and if I scrape it I'm afraid I may damage the trunk for good. I wonder if the fragility of this sapling is because it's from a seed rather than a graft. thank you for your suggestions! Romana Here is a link that might be useful: https://auth.gardenweb.com/members/gardenguru1950