Sorry for the delayed reply, but yes, Kalanchoes make flowers. K. blossfeldiana is referred to as florist Kalanchoe, known for its' prolific blooms. Not totally sure that's what it is, but if so, it would be likely to make flowers during the first half of the year, if it has enough light. If this is a landscape plant in Z9, it may be something else, not sure where Kal begins to be hardy, if at all. May be like Coleus, almost sure to die, roots and all, from one hard frost. IDK.

Well, I went back today for more details. These plants were in shallow water, or just along its edge in wet ground. Some clusters had more than 30 petioles with leaves in an area 6 inches square. Petioles were up to 11 inches tall and were fully sheathed for the bottom 1 to 3 inch long section. Most petioles had a secondary, partner petiole. The first petioleâÂÂs sheath wrapped the second petiole about half way around its circumference. Petioles had closely spaced ridges along their lengths. Those ridges had intermittent, very tiny protrusions that were difficult to make out with a 10x lens. Petioles were lime green, becoming purplish close to where leaves attached. Petioles were glabrous, and not glaucous. Some Petioles were fairly straight at the point of attachment, while others were curved toward the leaf's tip, making the leaf turn its point toward the ground. Leaves were up to 5.75 inches long by 3.5 inches across, sagittate, with the notch to 1.25 inch deep. Most of the leaves had petioles attached about 0.75 inch in front of the notch. Leaves were rounded on their two sagittate lobes, and acute with a spine protruding at their tips. Leaves had a primary vein to each lobe and their tip, with secondary veins running to leaf edges. Those smaller veins had tertiary veins which were curved outward, and even smaller veins connecting between. The leaves were also glabrous, and not glaucous, on both surfaces. They were a dull, medium, somewhat splotchy gray-green above and a dull, pale gray-green below.

At this time of year, perfectly normal. Probably the worst time of year you could select for tree planting. Your tree has transplant shock. Just keep it properly watered and you should be OK, providing the rootball itself was thoroughly hydrated before planting. If not, I'd dig, rehydrate properly, then replant. If your current weather is warm and dry, I'd bump up that watering frequency to at least 2 times a week, soaking the planting area thoroughly and deeply each time. Next time, do NOT plant trees in August, do NOT amend the planting hole (whatever soil comes out goes back in without additions) and do NOT add bonemeal or any other fertilizer at planting time. Nurseries often give out very poor and outdated planting advice.

I have a tomatillo plant that has really settled into our tomato patch. It is about 2 feet tall now and has many blooms on it. I have never grown one of these plants before and was wondering how big the fruit typically gets. Doesn't the fruit grow like some kind of husk on the top of the fruit, and how can you tell when it is ripe? It's an odd looking plant, in that it has smooth shiney stalk/limbs like a pepper plant. Like some kind of pepper/'mater cross. What are the sizes have y'all seen out of this type of plant?