I had both red and white mites.. dried neem leaf powder wiped off both in one single day. Still had white tiny worms crawling on sides of the bin all over. So yesterday sprayed neem oil which is slowly killing them I think. Must wait and see. Also fruit flies did not die with neem powder. But I think neem oil spray has taken care of them. Will check results and let you know. Dud not spray too much neam oil. Make sure you keep the bin under light so the worms burrow in then spray neem oil on surface of the bedding

Ok, what is the difference between the worm castings and vermicompost? All I know is that I do have worms in the bin that are giving worm casting. My last harvest was about 4 months and I just feed them kitchen scraps (veg peels, rotting veg/fruits) and I follow the method of burrying the scraps in one corner of the bin and alternate the corners everytime I feed them. And yes my big problem here is if I wanted to dry my finished compost, it would shrivel, clump and dry up. Now my other question here would be, if I were to dry the finished product to get a nice easy harvest, wouldn't that kill my worms since they need a moist place to live? Here is a link that might be useful:

The worm bin questions on water and make up/foods have been answered very well by annpat and armoured. Including where to get your starter worms, and how it can end up being an outdoor thing as time goes on with gardening. In case you can't find any locally, this is what I'd suggest for ordering commercially. Being in the Midwest, if you are certain you only want red wigglers, then you don't want to order from anywhere that sources or raises the smaller composting worms in the South. Most have either 100% blue worms, Perionyx excavatus, or a good portion of those. Past handful of years blues have found the warmer parts of this country to be a great home. They out compete red wigglers in the same small space because they are just plain faster. Breed faster, eat faster, move faster. Little race cars. Blues are good if it never freezes for any lengthy time frame where you'd keep worms, and you don't need worms for fishing purposes. Blue worms are the supermodels of worms, really thin. Blues do make vermicompost very fast, arguably faster than red wigglers. Cold weather exposed small composting worms for more than 16 hours will kill off most anything that isn't a 'red wiggler'. Some sites mention 45f degrees, but death after being kept in 34f for 16 hrs has been documented. Can't remember if this was a large bin or something else. I keep my blues indoors so no trouble. Blues would not in theory work outdoors further north in compost piles, rarely tumbled tumblers, or composty garden beds. They might drop cocoons before dying, or find some other way of adapting, so who knows. Probably best to keep blues away from the outdoors either way, because of how fast they process materials. My outdoor worms are mostly Alabama Jumpers and African Nightcrawlers. They co-exist seemingly fine, and occupy different layers. Alabama Jumpers are I believe one of the highly controversial outdoor worms, for similar reasons that Blue Worms could be bad news to unprepared forests. Have also used the indoor variety of 'continuous flow through' bins. Worm Inn, both sizes, The Urban Worm Bag version 2, etc. Have one of the small breeder Vermibags, but not one of the big versions yet. I get freshly interested about vermicomposting each winter mostly. When the garden beds are slam full of greens, carrots and such, so I have little room outside for tucking in all the scraps and small animal bedding. Suddenly I'm eyeing my indoor worms and saying... get ready little guys! Time to step it up! A bin that has been functioning with live worms and no problems for about 6 months would count as 'established' to my understanding. If you split off worms from an established bin to a new bin, those old worms don't automatically make the new bin an established one. Also used many many Rubbermaid type bins and Can O Worms previous to those. They all work, but if you like blending and have lots of wet scraps, breathable bags might be easier to manage. Bag type bins are great for getting a lot of materials processed faster than usually occurs in a solid Rubbermaid type bin. Where to keep a worm bin in the house really depends on the tolerance of others living in the home. Over my life in many houses, they have been in every room of the house, and sometimes as a variety of disguised furniture. Except in a basement. Only because I've never lived where a basement is a practical thing, and not an under the house inadvertent pool. Green with envy about basements. ;) Only thing is you can not run a extra damp or overfeed bin out in a public living space. The chance of some sort of smell or flying pest is just too high. I run all my bins on the dry side, but the ones I disliked the most were the Can O Worms (stacking towers) because the finished trays, even with running them somewhat dry, were so very heavy and all end up with the red wiggler worms dangling from the bottom holes. Guess worms didn't read the manual for how they were all supposed to move upwards. Imagine holding one of those trays. Where do you set that down? I was quite unhappy every time I needed to harvest that thing. *Shudder*

Have you checked out the Worm Wig Wam? https://wormwigwam.com/ Or you could go with a large scale DIY like in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyDdGPCM6s4 after 25 min. into it. Sounds like you feed the worms an overwhelming amout of flour & flour product which generally are fed with caution. You might want to p/u waste/pulp from a juice bar to mix into your bakery waste. Just curious, why only 1/6 of your egg shells. I would keep all of it and use the residual heat of your oven to dry them for easy and safe storage. Heating makes them brittle and easier to grind into powder. Too much grain products usually make the bin sour and high risk for protein poisoming. How many worms/bathtub (estimated)?