Root prune Hinoki to stay in pot?
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Root pruning my potted brug?
Comments (16)iris keep on trying...you will do it! Did you see the tutorial how to post pictures that just came back up a few days ago? Not sure if you only had problems this time? But this is the place to try :-) Lucy Did you resolve a root bound problem?...See MoreRoot-pruning/pot size for 'buried' container figs?
Comments (14)Quick return to this thread (I'm trying to get in a flurry of replies, been short on time): Al, you said As far as root-pruning goes, you will likely only undertake it every 3-4 years. Those plants that you have buried will be easy. Depot, saw the bottom 1/3 - 1/2 of the roots off, clean the roots & prune the fat ones. Then - right back in same container. You will likely see a diminished crop in years that you root-prune, but subsequent crops should be greater as a result of improved vitality. Does this mean, though, that as Herman had mentioned, whenever I root-prune yearly to unclog the bottom of the container, that I'll have a diminished crop from the pruning? it didn't sound like that was everyone's experience necessarily, so I want to understand the relationship between the degree of pruning and the lack of productivity, when it sounds like it might be the inverse from some of Herman's recommends. Also, with my figs being so young, I'll just mention that I don't need a saw, only a scissors to prune them at this point! (on a tangential note, I ended up pruning more than roots last night, when de-potting one of my figs: I found a rather large, slightly-slumbering arachnid of a copper-red shade lurking in the roots as I untangled them with my fingers - ICK! the scissors came in handy, rapidly, and now shredded spider parts are a component of that last batch of soil 8-p ) Again, from Al: With regard to your soil choice: A plant that is grown in a container that is not in contact with the soil will benefit more from the gritty mix than those you sink, container & all, in the ground. The reason is simple: there will be no perched water table in the containers that are in the ground. The surrounding soil will act as a giant wick & drain the water. So are you saying that ones being sunk into the dirt will have more wicking action and need a *more* moisture-retentive soil mix used? and that the ones above ground will need the better aeration qualities to avoid a PWC making the bottom portion of the container too soggy for roots to colonize effectively? just trying to clarify my understanding (I do appreciate having grasped the entire PWC concept, that's helped me strategize how I re-pot and mix my soil combos). And a flag to Herman, I don't know if you saw my query? (see above in the thread): Herman, do you trim your container figs to any particular size or shape? (Some of mine were pruned to single stem by the nursery; some seem to grow upright with less branching as a natural habit, others want to branch a *lot*.) I have quite a few single-stem cuttings that are little (24" or less) and have hardly any branchings - I don't want to pinch out the top growing tip on these this spring to make them branch, do I? this is an area I'm not familiar with, is how to prune and *when*, to encourage the fruit. I checked the archives in this forum and saw things about pinching back growing tips, but how big do you let the figs get first before touching them? Thanks for help, everyone! (still looking for Leon to chime back in about his grandfather's fig and any pruning that might've been done when unearthing it in the spring) Sherry (counting down with 15+ figs to re-pot)...See MoreHow to prune the roots of potted figs?
Comments (12)I always remove anything growing straight down from anywhere near the base of the trunk. I don't always do it all in 1 repotting session, but that is always my aim & I git er done over the course of as many repots as it takes. That's mostly because I'm a bonsai practitioner and a broad, fat root base is a very attractive feature that may be of no consideration to you whatsoever. Plants from cuttings really don't have taproots, but the plants are genetically smart enough to know they need anchoring, so they're programmed to send out taproot replacements in the form of roots that grow downward from near the base of the tree. These roots serve no purpose in containerized trees, and will need to be removed anyway, as soon as they hit the bottom of the pot & start circling or growing back up into the root mass, so it's better to just eliminate them as they occur. This is a maple, but pretty much how I treat figs, too: Other roots after pruning: From this to this Al...See MoreHelp with pruning Hinoki compacta cypress tree
Comments (8)the bush lost it's compact growth pattern ...... and it's regrowth is spread out instead of the being compact, ==>>> perhaps someone can explain the word compact to OP in regard to this plant ... it seems he has certain expectations.... it seems that based on the name alone.. OP expects it not to grow all that much ... and based on the growth i see ... that is not the fact .. but i dont know what a non-compacta should grow ... MI is a lot less than say.. the PNW ... simply because the growing season is half ... which of course begs the question... are we sure it is compacta???? ken...See MoreKW PNW Z8
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)