picaso, What kind of lighing fixtures do you have, how many fixtures, and how close are they from your seedlings? Are they HID, compact florescents, or straight florescent tubes. Florescent fixtures should be 2" or less from the tops of the seedlings. Also, unless you have a very good reflector, the fixtures should be directly under the seedlings. If you have too many seedlings to fit directly under the fixture, consider adding more fixtures or relocating some of the seedlings to a south window. If you need more fixtures, you can purchase 4 ft. 2 bulb T8 florescent shoplights from Home Depot for about $8 each. 32Watt Cool White bulbs will run you another couple of bucks each. No need for expensive fixtures as these work great for seedlings. Also, you may want to increase the number of hours the lights are running from 12 to 16-18. If your seedlings are already too leggy, you may want to consider starting over with proper lighting. The Growing Under Lights Forum has lots of good info. Good Luck, Rokal Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Under Lights Forum

Not a good idea. It doesn't matter how many holes you put in the bags, the sun on the plastic will boil what water there is left in the stems, and your roses will die. If you want to keep your roses from drying out, water them deeply, but, please no plastic of any kind.

It's all about the prep. The ground must be graded properly and compacted with base rock. Connect your rain gutter downspouts to an underground pipe and divert them into the storm water drain. Make sure your concrete patio does not interfere with the natural drainage of the soil; put in underground drains to allow for the rainwater runoff. The lines trowled or cut into the slab are called control joints. These are where the slab is supposed to crack. Have your contractor design plenty of control joints into the pour, to avoid cracks where you don't want them. Mist water on the concrete as it cures, especially in the hot sun.

Ok, I finally looked at almost the entire video---instead of the first 30 seconds or so. From about 1:15, the damage gets much worse. There are soffits---the horizontal sections under the area from the fascia to the wall of the house----but, are there vents in the soffit areas and are those vents clear into the attic----and is there sufficient exhaust area(roof vents/turbines/etc) for the air in the attic to escape? The best advice I can give---it is very difficult to determine the exact problem(s) over the Internet---is to find a competent roofer/company to inspect the roof and determine the best repairs. How to find a competent roofer/company? The longer a company has been in business, the more satisfied customers they have. Competent, experienced roofers will have a list of satisfied customers and addresses---go look at their work. Ask folks, there are competent roofers who work for less money and still do a good job---their customers will also be happy. The gotcha is anyone can say they are roofers---I've put shingles on houses using volunteers. Took us three Saturdays to do a house pro's would get done in a day and a half max---and I had 10-12 folks working. But, those were now houses(Habitat), not reroof jobs.