Thanks Campv & Dan8, I visually checked almost all of the leaves and couldn't find any bugs like aphids. I went to local nursery calloways and the folks told me that leaves curled because of under watering. I live in Dallas and for the past one month we are getting quite a bit of rain and a friend of mine regularly watered all my plants, not sure whether leaf curl is because of under watering. I'll keep an eye on the tree

After watering everyday, keeping the shade over my poor Black Jack fig tree, it is showing signs of new life! My Angel Red pomegranate that was planted the same day did the exact same thing. They basically shed 90% of their leaves to help deal with transplant shock. After some TLC for two weeks, they both put out healthy new growth! Here're some photos of the fig tree with new growth. But there are lots of these tiny flies around the tree. Could they be fig whitefly? Here's some photos of my Angel Red that did the exact same thing. Again, I am so glad that I got lots of advise on here for care of my fig tree. But I also have learned from this experience that the plants are pretty smart and does what it needs to cope with the transplant shock if you give them some additional support like water and some shade. I have learned to not freak out as soon as I see the tree drop their leaves when I first plant them, and learn that with proper care they will put out new growth when it is ready.

robhan , I am also in Seattle area, (in Sammamish). Up until now we have had very cool weather. I used to water my bed like once a week. But now getting into 90s, that is going to be differen. MULCHING: In our area there is no need for traditional mulching( to prevent evaporation ..) Our generally rainy weather does not require that. I just took my black plastic out. I sprinkle the beds with small pine bark , about 1/2" thick (from Lowes), just to prevent soil splash. TRIMMING: I trim all lower leaf branche to clear off the ground. Obviously the yellow half dead leaves have no benefit but being a haven for diseases. I look, and as soon as I see leaves yellowing, I just trim them off. There are leaves that you know they will not recover. I would just get rid of them. BER: I have not any this year (so far) and last year. If you have ever limed your beds, then there should be plenty of calcium. I just sprinkle some fast acting lime. That is ok since our soil is generally on the acid side. Then, BER is an early season, problem. Also certain varieties are more prone to it, such as Romas, SanMarzanos, .. I have stopped growing them. Now How do you like the current heat wave :

Check that the root ball is moist but not overly wet. Container grown azaleas and lots of other plants can dry out at the roots after planting because the growing medium in the pot and the native soil are usually quite different. If you have been experiencing a lot of rain, excessive moisture can also be a problem. Make sure the root ball is slightly above grade to help with drainage. The new growth of deciduous azaleas like Gibraltar is normally quite soft so there may be nothing at all to be concerned about.