Update: Think I lost a few more due to hard freeze...waiting to see if there are any procrastinating seeds. But, the weather has warmed back up and it seems as though I will be getting a few more sprouts... 4/12: Aquilegia (Pink NOID) Aquilegia vulgaris (Clear Pink) 4/15: Allium cernuum Amorpha fruticosa Aquilegia NOID Iris tectorum 4/18: Syringa vulgaris (White) 4/21: Hibiscus moscheutos NOID from LVG Iris ensata ÂPicotee Wonder Iris sibirica ÂButter & Sugar Abelmoschus esculentus ÂEmeraldÂ

Well, heck, I was just trying to help take your mind off not feeling well, LOL! WOW!! What a fabulous yard! What gorgeous sweeping vistas... all those beautiful miscanthus...just terrific! I'll keep coming back to these for some time... Love the stone wall with the nifty little hook at the end! Also, what trees are you growing? Their forms are so nice - more winter interest, along with the grasses. What, in particular, is the dusky-leaved one that is leafing out in the fourth picture and seemingly in full leaf in the fifth? How nice to have an acreage and what a great job you've done with it. (*Sigh* ...wonder if anyone would notice if I annex the playground behind our house?) I don't think I'm capable of giving a meaningful description of the Poa cita, other than clumping, upright, about 18" tall (in clay soil, full sun), not unusual color-wise... duh, I'll see if I can find a picture! They were labelled as that when I bought the plants, anyway, and have proved hardy. (Googling the name, I see it is a species native to New Zealand and sub-antarctic islands...hmm, guess that would explain how it survives here, assuming it was correctly labelled.) Unfortunately, I didn't collect seeds of it or the Sesleria glauca, but could make a point to do that next year. Attached is a seed source for the Poa cita, if you wanted to try then right away. Well, gotta go look at your pix again! Thanks!

I live near a wetlands with clay soil and have been using specially prepared planting holes. Since everything drains toward the wetlands, I have no standing water over my ornamental grass beds during heavy rains. All of my ornamental grasses are thriving. I typically dig a hole 18" to 30" in diameter and 14" to 24" deep. I mix peat moss and composted manure with the native soil to make a loose organically nuturing planting hole. Regarding fertilizer, I like to add a little triple phosphate and slow release 12-12-12 capsules to the bottom and outer walls of the planting hole to encourage the roots to stretch deep and outward. The ornamental grasses send roots throughout these planting holes much faster than through the native soil, although the roots will spread through the surrounding clay soil in time. Clay has slow drainage, but holds nutrients well. I can go farther between occasional waterings. I can not use raised mounds without creating a lump of dirt that drys up without consistent watering and kills surface layer roots. I would suggest preparing the proverbial $10 hole for a $1 pot of ornamental grass this summer and see for yourself that ornamental grasses are far easier to grow than one might suppose. Be sure to pick a spot with lots of sunlight! Also remember if getting small pots of ornamental grass that the perennial saying applies in regards to each of three years growth in "One to sleep, One to creep, and One to leap!" This basically means that you will enjoy your grasses with the plants gaining maturity each year. Some grasses will grow slower or faster. With the amount of ground you seem to have, you should have plenty of room to play!

Hi all Welcome to the High Desert Long time resident of Hesperia and landscape designer. Have an acre fully landscaped and orchard. Here is a short list. Trees: Sequoia giganteum, Quercus lobata, Quercus engelmannii, Quercus douglasii, Fraxinus oxycarpa raywood, Fraxinus velutina common and modesto, Cercidium floridum if protected, Chilopsis linearis, Prosipsis glandulosa, various species of Pinus. Shrubs and accents: Leucophyllum frutescens, Larrea tridentata, Buddleia marrubifolia, Caesalpinia gilliesii, Ribes aureum, Cercis canadensis, many species of Agave and Yuccas, Cacti, Salvia greggii, Salvia Clevelandii, various penstemons, Oenothera berlandieri, Pennisetum setaceum, Perovskia atriplicifolia, various junipers. While many people plant leylandii as wind breaks and they are better than Arizona cypress, they still are prone to borer damage. The Sequoia is a good replacement for them. Fruit and nut trees do well most years. Borers are a problem with peach,necterine,plum and cherry. Apples do well when we get enough chill. Apricots are good most years. Use a dormant oil spray. Avoid a lawn or keep it small and close to the house. Use drip irrigation whenever possible. On most plants amend the soil and irrigate early morning.