Heres a few things i know about Citrus in general: they like a free draining gritty soil that should dry out between waterings(my mix consists of turface,granite grit and pine bark mulch), plenty of sun and warmth and dislike water logged roots.They are heavy feeders needing micronutrients(i use Miracid for fertilizer)I overwinter my lemons and grapefruits in a sunny window (about 6 hours a day) and put them in direct sun outside after the threat of frost has passed and they do fine. Do keep it away from any forced air heater vents inside. I'm not sure of the cold tolerence of the kumkquat though i hear it can take lower temps. Hope this helps, DavskiB

Unless your 'Catus Orchid' is an Eulophia pertersonii which I doubt, it probably is an Epiphyllum which has nothing to do with orchids but makes spectacular, short lived flowers. Good luck with your new plants, sounds like you controlled your self pretty well. I have a couple of suggestions; Start a catalog of your plants, not now but eventually when you have a few hundred plants, you will tend to repurchase the same plants as you are attracted to certain types. Having a list of plants helps to avoid that. If you have a smart phone and can go on the internet, bring up potential purchases as some plants change names. Encyclias have been fragmented and go under several new names, the same thing will likely happen to Masdevallias. I have on several occasions bought a 'new' plant only to find out it was a synonymn of something I already have. The best times to go is the earliest and the latest possible times. Go immediately when the show opens as you get the best selection but also go 1/2 hour before closing as most vendors will drastically slash prices to get rid of stock. Don't be embarrassed to make a low offer on a plant, you will be surprised how often it is accepted at 4:30PM Sunday. Look for damaged plants. If you like a certain BLC for example and there are several available, one with damaged flowers, make a low offer on that plant, it will bloom again. Don't buy for the flowers on the plant right now but for the ones in the future. Flowers are of course important as it's your best guide to what you are getting but I have no problem with fading or slightly crushed flowers as long as the price is right. Buy the largest plant you can afford, it's very frustrating to buy a small plant because you like the 'Sample Plant' and then have to wait 2 to 3 years for your first bloom. Probably not now but once you are fully addicted, go to the show with a certain amount of cash and leave the check book and the plastic at home. Just like Los Vegas, a good orchid show will suck you dry so be prepared. In the end it's all good fun and there are centers for rehab if you ever want to escape the addiction. There also 9 or 12 step programs for recovered orchid addicts you can join in the future. Or you can fully immerse yourself and end up doing handstands for rare and unusual plants which you will never find at orchid shows but are obtained by scouring the far corners of the world. Nick

A red tinge is totally normal: on leaf edges, on leaf backs, and on emerging new leaves. Sounds like you're doing all the right things! Cutting the spikes will help the plant save energy and work on getting used to its new environment. I've learned that bright light and watering less rather than more are the way to go (it's hardly rocket science, but you'd be amazed by how long it took that info to sink in!). The plant will forgive you if you let it dry out a day or two more than it wants ... maybe a wrinkly leaf or withered roots that will plump again once you water. It will NOT forgive you if you leave it in bark or moss that's too soggy for days on end: rotten roots; rotten crown; dead orchid. Good luck, I hope to see you report back with news of a new spike next summer!

Bloody hell! Your orchid looks great I say given the circumstances! You have 2 out of three. Leaves, check. Spike, check. Only roots to go. Mind can't see them from your photos. My rescued ones (discounted from shops just before eminent doom) looked a lot worse when bought. Good luck! I am an amateur with loads of reading and somewhat attempts at growing orchids. I have just over ten up North (I recently moved across country and left them with mum) - these I posted about before on the forum (people were great with advise - I had them infected with larvae - but all good now touch wood). I have 5 at my new place (1 vanda) + 4 that I got for my sister. A few tips (mind you, you don't have to follow them - as each to their own ... my first advise on watering when I bought my first orchid six and a half years ago I no longer follow ... soaking method never worked out): - orchid leaves are not meant to be a gorgeous deep green (so the books tell us). So maybe a little closer to light. Mind they look good so might not be a must/must. Some of mine are deep colour, but hey ho there is a limited amount of sunshine one can get. - I read somewhere either a little cold or dark (not sure which) can get the blooms to open faster. - tight roots in clear plastic pot is good. If you repot it with space they will concentrate on root growth instead of flowering. - I water mine in bathroom. Once a week as its winter (but only if they dry - patting the bottom of pot if it has holes or checking the colour of roots ... green still moist light green need water). I pour loads of tepid water in the morning all over roots and bark avoiding leaves and crown and let them drain + spray the leaves and roots with special spray. - I mostly try to avoid ceramic pots (my preference). I like the way roots look in clear pots and I can tell quicker how good they are. I use shallow hand made ceramic bowls or plates instead (+roots have photosynthesis I hear): https://www.facebook.com/craigeylesceramics?fref=ts mind you I do also have a few oversized pots (so I can easily lift the plastic ones out). - repotting I hear needs to be done once in 1 -2 years. In spring or summer ... you don't want your orchid freezing. Don't know about where you live but hey ho nothing works in the garden/ home depot places in the UK. The generic stuff is too dirt based, gets soggy easily and does not drain. I bought some: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Orchid-Repotting-Kit-Orchid-Pot-Repotting-Mix-100ml-Orchid-Myst-Instructions-/291328763815?pt=UK_HomeGarden_Garden_PlantsSeedsBulbs_JN&hash=item43d48c27a7 Well not the kit ... massive bag of the stuff and spray separately. Mind you it ain't the best + quality hit and miss sometimes... but loads better that the garden centres stuff. I am planning to buy the next mix from a proper orchid nursery in Spring. With maybe some charcoal. If you repotting maybe search youtube ... I found a few helpful videos. If you'd like some tips let me know. It is advised when bought a bad conditioned orchid to repot it straight away (but I'd guess not in winter nor when its blooming unless you cutting off the spike... tends to correspond for phals). I am not perfect and will never be ... (right temperatures?! in this economy ...). I used to underwater mine ... getting better now. But orchids are the only plants that I had that survived this so I would say they are quite strong. I do refere to phalaenopsis species. Vandas I have no clue ... panicking like hell for it to not die.