It was suggested "Exact diagnosis can be made by taking a sample to your local extension office but if it is Phytophthora (or another root invading fungus), there is little you can do now." If such a sample is brought to the Extension Service office, please call ahead so that the Master Gardeners have time to locate information as to how to sample the soil & the affected root tips. Also know that a fee is charged, the precise amount depending upon the test to be done -- fees for the OSU Plant Disease Clinic begin at $40.00. Beyond that, I doubt this will be an easy diagnosis. I'd consider multiple factors potentially contributing to the problem: 1. Because OP said s/he "paid quite a bit of money" I suspect it is a sizable specimen. If so, post-plant irrigation is a critical factor in survival. All transplants should go into evenly moist soil, then the rootball should be supplied with more water than the surrounding area during the following months. Failures of recent transplants typically are due to water -- either too much or too little. 2. The sudden very cold weather in December, without snow cover, damaged & even killed many plants hereabouts, including those which survived 10 years or more. 3. The tree is a recent transplant. As such it is more likely to be damaged by cold than an established tree of the same kind. 4. Dormant roots are less susceptible to water damage than are actively growing roots. 5. In general -- and yes, exceptions exist -- root rot results in entire tree failure. 6. It's nigh to impossible to diagnose root rot by looking at dead branches and/or browning leaves. 7. And perhaps most critical, multiple nearby specimen maples are in potential jeopardy if the problem is indeed soil-borne, such as Phytophthora root rot or verticillium wilt. So, I suggest pinkswine consider having a certified arborist or two come for an on-site evaluation. To locate a certified arborist, look in the Yellow Pages under the heading of Trees or something similar. Ads for companies with a certified aroborist will either have a statement or small rectangular logo stating such.

You'll probably get some differing opinions on this but I myself would go for it. The amount of water isn't going to matter nearly as much as the quality (very low nutrient/mineral content/low to neutral ph) and the medium you use. I would alter the mix to be a little less water retentive, use more sand. I might also give it a bit more drainage. As long as it's full sun and the water doesn't actually disturb roots or really pool for very long periods of time I'll bet you'll be ok. I had a bog that got lots of runoff and groundwater, not ideal because it's hard to keep conditions constant, but do-able. Remember, fertilize the lawn once and it runs in there you lose the whole bog in one fell swoop. I'm assuming CP or similar acid bog since you mentioned low nutrient.

I think you need to explain exactly the nature of the site that you are wanting to build the bog garden in. You are saying that it is entirely bedrock of shale? You mean that you have a hole that is in solid rock? Why would you need a liner if you have solid rock? As far as bog substrate is concerned, compost is NOT what you should use for any bog garden. What is needed is river sand and peat moss mixed at a 50 50 ratio. However the body of the bog in which the substrate sits should not be the entire 3 foot depth. The bog should be built as a stratified system. This consists of various layers and an outflow, both an insert and surface flow flooding relief. The bottom layer should be of coarse rocks into which a pvc pipe, which is large enough in diameter to take a hose for pumping water out with a water pump if necessary, is set so that water can drain freely up the pipe, this can be done using a portion of a perforated pipe or just drilling large holes in the pipe. The top of pipe must extend above the surface of the bog and can be capped with an elbow joint for controlling direction of drainage. Upon the layer of coarse rocks should be sat a couple of layers of reticulated foam filter material-click to see with one layer ran in one direction and the upper layer ran perpendicular to the lower level. These will allow for water to flow into the coarse rocks layer and keep most of the silt, sand, and other debris out of the coarse rock layer. Upon this I would cover with a layer of coarse river gravel and coarse rocks to keep the foam from floating. Then a layer of about a foot and a half of a sand and peat moss mix packed in tight to the area. This will be the basic growing area of the bog. For bog plants do not crowd and avoid using any grasses, sedges, or woody perennials that can overwhelm the bog. I am presuming you are planning on growing carnivorous plants. Start with a few and give them plenty of space between plants. Put the larger species in the back or center of the bog and the smaller ones near the edges. Before planting flood the bog and see how the water moves out so you can find what portion of the bog naturally drains. It is this area that you may want to add a few flat stones or small boulders sitting into the bog from the edge of the bog to help minimize loss of bog substrate. You might even put the container for the tapoles in this area. I hope that this info will be of help.

Generally speaking, LFS is not used for pygmy sundews. You have it right with the sand and peat. My concern is what you will do in the winter. Even if you are from SE PA, it's going to get too cold for them, if they are left outside.