One of the various fungal agents collectively known as maple anthracnose. It is generally not a serious issue, more cosmetic than actually harmful......and it can fluctuate from year to year with weather conditions. And once you see visible signs of the problem, it is too late to treat anyway. But it is best to rake up and destroy or fully compost all the leaves in fall. Don't just use them as is as a mulch as the fungal spores can winter over.

Yes and no. First the excess nitrogen needs to be removed and this may sound strange to you but you should feed the microbes sawdust, ground up twigs or cardboard. Feeding the microbes a diet low in nitrogen and high in carbon will force the microbes to consume excess nitrogen in the soil to live. The microbes main diet is carbon and nitrogen at a ratio of 24 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen and the items I mentioned have a ratio of 378 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen for cardboard and up to 500 to 1 for twigs and sawdust. They eat the carbon and turn to the excess nitrogen in the soil to eat, problem fixed. So get about a 1/2 cup of ground up cardboard, twigs or sawdust and mix into the soil. (you figure out how to grind them up) After a couple of weeks it's time to start feeding the plants again but only with the fish stuff DON'T use the Trifecta! It was a one time application only. Fish emulsion has a 5-1-1 nutrient ratio and right now your plant needs MORE potassium than nitrogen the fish stuff doesn't have, so 1/2 of a dried banana peel will do every two weeks. Fish emulsion has 3 to 5 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen so when consumed by the microbes they leave a lot of nitrogen for the plant to use. Adding any other source of nitrogen will be too much. But if you really want to make the plant healthy and happy get some alfalfa meal, it's rich in everything a tomato plants needs that the fish stuff doesn't. Cut the fish stuff in half and cut the alfalfa meal recommendations in half and you will never have a nutrient problem suffered by many who use pots to grow in. The plant that has already grown will never produce a flower or tomato and flowers will only appear on new growth so don't worry, and cutting off the bottom leaves didn't hurt it a bit. To be honest I never read your original post so I didn't know you mentioned no flowers, All I looked at was the picture.

Thank you for getting back. I agree with the above statements. I am not certain it is fungal/bacteria but you could try a systemic fungicide, wait for new leaves to develop to see if they develop the same spots. There is a Phal virus which presents in a similar pattern. I would keep your plant separated from your other orchids and treat it with a systemic fungicide. When new leaves develop and if they show the same spots, I would personally discard the plant. Hopefully it is fungal. Jane

Did you, by any chance, put your plant outdoors "for a little sun", or move it temporarily from a one location to another that was much brighter? Sunburn has a greater impact on thicker parts of the leaf, near the midrib if the leaf has one, because heat dissipates from the thinner leaf margins more quickly than thicker parts of the leaf. Have you applied anything to the leaf - insecticides, fungicides, dishsoap, etc? Al