How does Firelight hydrangea do in Zone 3b/4a?
ostrich
2 years ago
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luis_pr
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Tesselaar Gift Hydrangeas
Comments (3)OK I got the scoop on Blackberries & Cream from one of their spokespeople: "Blackberries & Cream is a more compact / improved selection from Firelight that was selected over the course of many different / continued selection" Well that's interesting. Until further notice, if anyone has this I would just treat it like Firelight....See MoreMy Backyard planting experience (Part 2) - Zone 4a/b Quebec, Canada
Comments (55)Mat, yeah I have 2018 and 2019 to write up. I have all my notes. Just have to find time. I checked out Pepiniere casse noisette website. They do not list their rootstocks anywhere that I can find. What rootstocks are your pears, peaches, apricots on? Honestly, a lot of what they are selling, at least in apricots, peach, nectarines seem to me to be VERY marginal for their climate. In many case they mention useful for growing in pots but if that is the case how are they propagating for sale? I don't want to disparage them without information but my impression is they might be reselling . You absolutely need to be buying based upon root-stock. For apples I am not only buying on Bud118 as it has best cold hardiness and is vigorus for our short seasons - Bud9 is just too slow. Train and prune to keep the size you want. Pears on OHxF87 or 97 and prune/train. I have found PAW-PAWs to be marginal in 4b - still 3' tall after 5+ years. Blueberries don't like my soil so Haskasps and Currants are much better. You have better options than Indigo Gem, Aurora is good though. Pink Lemonade is like a zone 5/6 plant, I see little chance of it surviving. Both Whiffletree and vigneschezsoi are good options. Be aware that a 1-2 year old bare root grape vine will bear fruit 1-2 years faster than the same year rooted cuttings you will get from vigneschezsoi. If you are only buying a couple might want to spend a couple extra $$ to get fruit a whole year or 2 earlier. Somerset and Trolhaugen are good. Had a couple Brianna this year, not enough to really say. Get Bluebell as well. I suggest 10-15' between vines. Can go closer but I am of the hack back 90% every year and then let grow. Trollhaugen can put out 12-15' of growth in 1 year alone - plant closer and you have to keep on top of canopy thinning to avoid overgrowth. Apples and pears will benefit from bagging with ziplocs. Grapes I bag with Organza bags when starting to turn color. So far I am loosing 99% of stone fruit (plums) to plum curlico and the rest to birds/racoons (can't bag plums - they rot). All peaches die. Trying apricots but no fruit yet. Don't get too caught up on types of fruit. Buy something disease resistant on a hardy, vigorus rootstock then topwork as you get enough branch structure. You will then be able to test fruit to see what you like or not within 3 years of grafting. My crabapple is now up to 65+ different apples grafted to it....See MoreHydrangea 2016
Comments (5)rouge - yours look magnificent! The one I bought a couple of years ago is rapidly fading away. There are no signs of bloom on it out there now and the shrub is looking very dwarf.... It's in the full-sun front bed - but does NOT get supplemental water! (Actually DH did do some supplemental watering in that bed earlier this week and we did finally get some decent rain on Wed. and Thurs. (23 mm. in total) but it's all too little; too late!) I was just checking my rain records - on average from Apr.-end of July we'd have had 321.34 mm. (12.65") of rain. We've been considerably below normal every month. To date we've only had 161 mm. (6.34") of rain - i.e. half our normal and a shortfall of over 6"! For those of you in naturally drier areas, I'm sure our rain this year still seems generous, but when the plants are used to a LOT more, these conditions are brutal for both garden and gardener! :-) Here's drought-stressed Bobo - it's the pathetic little shrub to the left of the dark heuchera and above the empty space (gotta plant something there!) above the VERY dwarf 'My Monet': The best hydrangeas in the front garden are the 'White Moth' which grow along the garage and also there is one at the end of the driveway border:...See MoreOld wood vs New wood for a few hydrangeas I just bought
Comments (8)Timing of the flowering will depend heavily on location. In luis' very southerly location hydrangeas may well bloom in spring but further north, they won't start blooming until later into the summer. In my area - pretty far north - the only hydrangeas blooming before the end of June are those purchased already in bloom from nurseries or greenhouses!! And with a later overall boom, it is tricky to tell old wood flowers from those produced on new wood. There is no lapse between the two but rebloomers or those that flower on new wood as well will continue to produce flower buds (broccoli) late into the season, often continuing to bud and flower as late as October. Two extremes of location - two very different bloom cycles :-) Most others wll fall somwhere in between these two....See Moreostrich
2 years agobellarosa
2 years agoostrich
2 years agopennlake
2 years agoprairie_northrose (3b north of Calgary AB, Canada)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoostrich thanked prairie_northrose (3b north of Calgary AB, Canada)ostrich
2 years agoostrich
2 years ago- ostrich thanked prairie_northrose (3b north of Calgary AB, Canada)
FrozeBudd_z3/4
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoFrozeBudd_z3/4
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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