"Wilt" is not contagious. There is a very large body of thought that contends that wilt is not a disease or fungal issue at all but rather the inability of the vine (through insufficient root mass or stem diameter) to support the considerable top growth. The fact that clematis wilt is seldom ever fatal and that most vines outgrow it after several years seems to support that contention. Highly hybridized clematis - generally most of those that are included in the pruning group 2, like your 'Ernie' - are most prone to wilt and species clems or those very close to species are most resistant. If you have concerns, select from pruning group 3's or one of the viticellas or viticella hybrids. And if one were to plant a new vine prone to this problem (any group 2's) deeply enough in a well prepared planting hole and prunes hard for the first couple of seasons to encourage root and good stem development, you may never experience any wilt at all.

Like I said - never grown tomatillos so can't comment on the "slower growing rootwise" part. I would agree that the ratio of pot size to plant size has a role with young plants regardless of type. And I agree that it is possible to have a pot that is too big for the size of the plant and that it will lead to excess water problems. Dirt in big pots stays damp much longer than soil in small pots. But those look like fairly good size plants so without knowing what size container they are in and how large/old the plant itself is I can't tell you if the ratio of plant to pot is out of line in this case. But if it is over-watering and that's a big IF in my mind, then is easy to control regardless of the pot size. You just don't do it. ;) Stick your finger deep as possible into the soil before watering. If it is at all cool or even slightly damp - no water. If you cut way back on the water you should see improvement within 7-10 days. And, if it is over-watering then remember that you have been washing out nutrients too and the plants may just need a really good feeding - regularly good feeding. Especially micro-nutrients. Hope this helps some. Dave

I personally think decking boards look better on a back door than a front, but it can be done in a way that is appropriate looking for a front, just needs a more formal look. ARe you thinking of doing the work yourselves or hiring someone? If you are hiring someone I would call some places that specialize in front porches and see what their ideas are. Could you replace the concrete with pavers? They have more give an don't crack.

It resembles what happens to the leaves in the Fall when cold weather arrives and kills the leaves. So, yes, a late frost may have damaged them. If so, it would have damaged the leaves in old/new growth. But "only once". Meaning the new leaves would have been zapped, the plant would create replacement leaves but these replacement leaves should n-o-t turn black. If the replacement new leaves also turn black, something else is afoot. Hopefully this will not affect flowering but it might if stems also turn brown and stuff like that. Since this is just how the leaves look now and since you can monitor how the leaves blacken/change better than us, I will also give you a link containing information about various fungal diseases. Of interest, the article talks about Anthracnose, a fungal infection common in wholesaler facilities (you can get it by simply buying their infected stock). This disease produces dark lesions in the leaves. The lesions can appear dark brown, black, etc and both leaves and flowers can be infected. Of course, it is hard to tell if flowers are affected if you do not have any flowers yet, hu? Oh well. Hopefully this is not what you have (knock on wood) but review the information given, compare it to what you see and determine whether if any applies. http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1212/index2.tmpl