Hi debstuart1- That's correct. You want to plant the tree at least as high as the original soil line otherwise roots can form above the union down into the soil which effectively removes the benefit of having a (semi) dwarfing rootstock. The reason to plant it even higher than the original soil line was talked about by Harvestman (see post below) today: Often the trees will sink a bit in their new hole, especially if it was dug too deep. Also, you'll be adding mulch on top of the soil, which, year after year, becomes a slightly higher and higher soil line. Make sense? -Glenn Here is a link that might be useful: Have you expereinced scion rooting

Everything you listed will do well in the south, except cherries and maybe kiwi's in zone 8, unless you have a micro climate that will accommodate kiwi's. This is a blanket statement, because you must choose varieties that will do well in the south.

The practical advice is the chainsaw in my opinion also, but who that tends this forum is completely practical? I've saved downed trees for sentimental customers using a hand wench to lift it if a couple of strong people are inadequate. 3 large eyescrews, heavy wire and duck billed anchors can hold it until it re-establishes a functional root system. Eye screws into the wood are considered the best option these days for long term support. A single strong cedar post can be used as a more permanent support if necessary. Before lifting it reduce the branches to just the minimum framework of the tree shape you want- maybe a quarter of what is there now. On your windy site, I'd use summer pruning to keep trees much more open than that one appears- actually it looks too densely branched for any site. I too am surprised at the root system revealed in the photo but I can't see enough of it from that side to see if there aren't more substantial roots lower down. I wouldn't bother saving that tree, however (on my own property). It just aint anything special and was a rebuilding project when it went over. I'm lousy at fruit identification, especially if I can't see the fruit on the tree on location. I'm actually looking for a fruit identification specialist to use as a consultant. I manage a lot of very old trees that I'm unable to identify.

I have a few apple trees over 50 years still producing good fruit. If the trees have not been pruned lately I think they are worth catching up with the excess growth. When your pear is in bloom collect blooms from several pear trees and put them in coffee cans of water tied up in your pear tree. This should determine if lack of pollination is your problem. Al