Peat Moss Brand That is Powder Instead of Clumps?
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (6)
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Coco Peat, Coco Coir, Peat Moss...where?
Comments (19)I also have found coco coir to be excellent for seed germination. Coir is going to be superior peat for this for the same reason a paper towel is. It actually allows the seed to stay consistently moist. Peat dries out faster and doesn't have a reliable pH. You also don't have to worry about a bunch of sticks with coco. No nutes necessary for germination. The seed has its own food. Problem is, you have to transplant pretty soon or use liquid fertilizer if you use a medium without nutrients. I make soil blocks with a coco coir/vermicast/sifted compost mix so I don't have to worry about a quick transplant. Coco also won't mold or grow moss and algae on it like peat moss does. At least not until you put nutrients on it. It's just you adding the nutes instead of a pump. There is a very good reason peat isn't used for hydroponics but coco is. Coco is more stable, nearly all brands desalinate as they know the hydro industry is their number 1 customer - so normally no worries concerning salt, and it it's great for aeration because it doesn't break down as fast as peat moss. In fact, I sterilize, desalinate, and reuse the coco for my hydro plants. It lasts at least 3 growing cycles of tomatoes and many more for lettuce (shorter cycles is why). For anyone thinking, "But I don't do hydro," keep in mind that potted plants that require liquid fertilizer is hydro. It's just you adding the nutes instead of a pump. I hold no illusion that coco is more environmentally friendly. I did, because I fell for the media hype. But the reality is otherwise and I now definitely recognize this....See MoreCoco-Coir .vs. Peat Moss...
Comments (106)tapla said... "Ideal pH for container gardening is about 1 whole number lower than growing in mineral soils" Again, you've simply thrown out another statement un-tethered to anything... I know, I know you intended it to be that way... but why? I've no idea. As far as water holding capacity... you choose to present it based upon weight where dried peat is going to be much lighter than an equal volume of coir and so appear to hold more water but to my thinking basing water holding capacity on volume would likely be more relevant for the gardener (in either container or in soil). This I've done myself and am quite sure coir is going to expand far more with a given volume of water. Water holding capacity is important provided air pore spaces remain equivalent... however perlite, pumice, or vermiculite is so often suggested as an addition with peat potting mixes to make one wonder why the need for these components... likely to maintain the air pore spaces due to compacting as the peat degrades and thus collapses within one growing season, its lignin content notwithstanding (btw, coir has significant lignin content as well, especially considering percentage of weight). And as every gardener knows, maintaining the air pore space is critical for healthy root development and growth of a good many plants (but not all plants however). Holding luff then is the important feature and not necessarily lignin content. Again, a simple comparison study would prove out which material best maintains adequate air pore space over time... so could you point me to one or more of these studies? I don't know the answer but would definitely like to see some studies conducted that could enlighten me on this subject. Until then, I've got to say the jury is still out... there's lots of theory out there but empirical evidence is what's called for to solve this particular inquiry. tapla said "Allelopathy - High levels of phenolic compounds known to be present in coir ... can profoundly affect root morphology, limiting length, number, and size of all orders of roots" From the foregoing statement I gather you're saying that coir has an allelopathic effect on ALL rooted plants? and thus you cannot and/or need not supply a list of affected plants... is this a correct reading of what you're meaning to infer? I'm surprised that this allelopathy of coir is not mentioned on the Internet somewhere... or at least from the simple yahoo search I've done so far. I'm so intrigued by this new piece of information that I'm going to take it from a theory and try to come up with empirical evidence of it by planting some radishes in dixie cups... a half dozen in a 50/50 with peat/soil and another half dozen in 50/50 with coir/soil... the soil will be the same (coming from my garden to supply the micros and biology) and then water the same amount each day with one teaspoon of Jack's Classic into a gallon of water. In approximately two weeks I'll wash the soil mix off the roots and compare. Do you see any complicating factors I should be aware of before beginning this little experiment? I'm excited. (BTW, the reason for radishes is merely speed of germination and the roots will not swell if I end the experiment too soon... I don't have the time or patience to carry on anything that's going to take more than 2 weeks at the most to complete... also I already have everything I need to do this in the shed right now). EDIT: In my search for allelopathic connection between phenolic compounds and plant root growth I came upon these tidbits from two separate sources... make of them what you will but they sure seem to complicate matters with previous claims of allelopathy of coir over peat... "Once the coir is freed from the fiber it goes through a maturation process to stabilize the product and this can take up to 6 months. During this process salt, tannins, and phenolic compounds are removed. It is buffered, washed and calcium nitrate is added to displace sodium and balance the pH." "Sphagnum and the peat formed from it do not decay readily because of the phenolic compounds embedded in the moss's cell walls." So does that mean peat too is allelopathic to plant roots? If so, then its a wash and I'd be wasting my time conducting the simple radish experiment? Final UPDATE: Okay I give up... After a single search I've already found several references to peat and peat bogs as being allelopathy to the germination of certain plants... I'm going to call the allelopathy claims against coir and peat a wash....See Moresphagnum peat moss in compost pile
Comments (25)the whole idea for the home gardener, is after many years, replacing your need for store bought peat moss with home made compost. It takes a long time. For instance, my potting mix is 5 parts pinewood fines mulch, 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite. But gradually I am able to replace the peat moss with compost. It takes forever. So yes, everything goes in the compost pile. Unused peat moss, the bones from lambchops, leftover miracle grow potting mix, coffee filters, last year's tomatoe vines. You can speed things up by adding alfalfa pellets (Rabbit Food you buy at the local hardware or Walmart.) It gets really hot. At some point you ask yourself, "Is this a suitable substitue for peat moss?" And if the answer is "Yes" you have done your small part to save the planet (and a little of your wallet.)...See MoreMiracle Gro peat moss?
Comments (9)Hi, As already mentioned, Stay Away from MiracleGro or any other kind a potting soil that has Any Kind of "Plant Food", fertiliser etc. added to it... It might give it a quick "Rush" at first, but will kill your Carns in the long run... Mineral, mainly salt build up is like the #1 killer of carns... You should be able to get straight "Peat Moss" at pretty much any nursery or hardware store... I usually buy it in 40lb bags for around $12 - $14 at Osh, Home Depot, Lows etc... In general most Drosera prefer a sandy soil mix... Some say 1/3 sand to 2/3 peat ~ Some say 1:1 ratio of sand to peat ~ Ask 100 people & get 100 different answers ??? When in doubt a hand full of this mixed with a hand full of that works... LOL... But seriously, a 1/3 sand to 2/3 straight peat should work fine a Drosera Capensis / Cape Sundew... Personally I like to add a little crushed lava rock to the mix... Good Light & Using Only Distilled Water on them is probably more important then the exact soil mix... If everything else is good a 1:1 or a 1/3 to 2/3 mix of sand to peat shouldn't really make that big of a difference / Not as much as good light & water will... Good Luck With Them, Eric Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Mix / Care Info. / From Cooks...See Moredchall_san_antonio
3 years agoNevermore44 - 6a
3 years ago
Related Stories
VACATION HOMESHouzz Tour: Moss-Covered Lakeside Cottage Now a Modern Marvel
A 1949 Michigan weekend cottage with a sunken roof gets a makeover that stays true to the house's humble roots
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGN10 Smashing Black Kitchens
Looking for something different from an all-white kitchen? Think about going stylishly dark instead
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSHouzz Tour: A 1905 Cottage Gets a Major Family Update
Historic Boston meets outdoors Oregon in this expanded California home
Full StoryTINY HOUSESAdventure Seekers Hit the Road in a Cozy School Bus Home
Wood floors, butcher block countertops, custom furnishings and LED lights make life on the road feel like just another stylish day at home
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGardening Solutions for Heavy Clay Soils
What’s a gardener to do with soil that’s easily compacted and has poor drainage? Find out here
Full StoryCALIFORNIA GARDENINGCalifornia Gardener's July Checklist
Bite into tree-fresh apricots, inhale delightful garden perfumes and continue planting vegetables for a late-summer harvest
Full StoryGREENColor Guide: How to Work With Chartreuse
As earthy or electric as you please, this yellow-green hue brings the zing or just freshness to homes from traditional to modern
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSHouzz Tour: New Love and a Fresh Start in a Midcentury Ranch House
A Nashville couple, both interior designers, fall for a neglected 1960 home. Their renovation story has a happy ending
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESFrom Queasy Colors to Killer Tables: Your Worst Decorating Mistakes
Houzzers spill the beans about buying blunders, painting problems and DIY disasters
Full StoryFUN HOUZZDon’t Be a Stickybeak — and Other Home-Related Lingo From Abroad
Need to hire a contractor or buy a certain piece of furniture in the U.K. or Australia? Keep this guide at hand
Full Story
deltaohioz5