What is this insect and how to get rid of it please?
socks
3 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (20)
Related Discussions
need help on how to get rid of wasps!!! please
Comments (6)I know this thread is old but maybe this will benefit some people who have wasp problems. I discovered this wasp cure quite by accident. My brother had a dead animal in the walls of his house so we were trying to find something that would kill the smell, turns out chlorine and ammonia mixed will attack and kill the viruses that eat dead animals which causes the smell. I was experimenting with the mix and left a glass sitting on my back deck. Now I live in the country, have 3 acres and the wasps have historically been horrible at my house, when I get out of the car and come in side you would think I was dancing from dodging the wasps. I tried all the remedies, traps, sprays etc... but these are only good to kill them not keep them away. I noticed the next day after leaving this chlorine / Ammonia mix on my deck that there were considerably fewer wasps, which was odd. This was 2 weeks ago, I have kept a glass on my back deck for the past 2 weeks and now I might see an occasional one every now and then but it's usually flying away not at me. So if you want to keep wasps away, ie. not have to bother killing them, this stuff works big time. Get some chlorine tablets, you can buy them in jugs in most stores that sell pool supplies, get a bottle of regular household ammonia. Get a glass or I use a canning jar, put in 8 ounces of water and about 3 to 4 tablespoons of ammonia, now drop the chlorine tablet in and stir a couple rounds then leave it sit. (DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS) or if you do stay out for a couple hours. The gas released from the chemical reaction between the chlorine and ammonia is strong and wards off wasps and flies and mosquitos so far. This initial mix will last about 3 days, just stir it a couple times each day, then on the 4th day pour in another tablespoon or 2 of ammonia and stir again, repeat this for days 5, 6 and 7 then it's time to start a new batch. This has solved my wasp problem and I'm sure it will for you as well. Hope this helps...See MoreSide note to getting rid of bermuda-How do you get rid of Oxalis?
Comments (9)The common yellow oxalis we have here has tiny "bulbules" (sp?), which lurk 12 -18 inches under the ground. You can easily pull up the plants, of course, but those tiny bulb things stay under the soil, and up it comes again. I once had a gardener who decided to eradicate it from a flower bed which is about 12 feet long and 6 feet wide. He actually dug up the top 2 feet of soil, and sifted it by hand to get all of the tiny bulbs out. That worked for the first year, but by 2-3 years after he did that, back the oxalis came. So, being lazy, what I do is just admire it in the Spring, except where it is trying to smother other plants. Then just pull it out around those plants. By late Spring here it has died down, and I pretend it is gone. Of course, it comes up again the next Spring. It is one of our first blooming plants to bloom (starts Jan/Feb), so I just regard it as such and let it be mostly. One of my cats likes to eat it (we used to eat it as children - we called it "sour grass"). Jackie...See MoreWhat kind of insect is this and how to get rid of them?
Comments (10)Look up "May beetle" AKA "June beetle" and see it it matches the brown one. (A lot of things go by that name.) They can be really common for periods and there is no reason to get rid of them if they aren't doing visible damage to your yard. Don't get rid of an animal just because it is THERE. Only get rid of it if it's a problem. Was "a couple inches or less" a typo?...See MoreSoil mites? If so how to get rid of them please
Comments (5)You're already using a number of toxic ingredients. Did you know: most dish soaps have as many as a dozen ingredients that are phytotoxic (poison to plants)? detergents in these products destroy cuticular waxes (protective wax in leaves' outermost layer) and root lipid membranes? many "neem" products have little or none of the product (azadiractin) that makes neem oil effective? you definitely do not want vegetable oil in the soil, forming a barrier between roots and their oxygen supply, and alcohol in the soil will also destroy roots' lipid membranes? If you don't want to use anything toxic, I would suggest you make sure you're not providing (soil) conditions that ensure large populations of soil pests. Small soil particles that are high in materials that break down quickly (like cellulose) are particularly attractive to soil pests that feed on rotting vegetation, so avoiding things like leaf litter, unfinished compost, or the meals from which organic fertilizers often derive nutrients. Also, avoid fish or seaweed emulsions. For the most part, insect soil pests can be avoided by choosing a medium they find unfavorable and watering appropriately - only when the planting actually NEEDS watering. It's easy to determine when your plantings need water if you use a "tell". Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod with a diameter of 1/4 or 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They're most commonly sold in 48” (120cm) lengths and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See Moresocks
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agochisue
3 years agosocks
3 years agoLukki Irish
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
Related Stories
LIFEHow to Get Rid of Gnats Around the House
See swarming bugs in your plants or garden? Focus on the health of the soil and be naturally pest-free
Full StoryHEALTHY HOMEHow to Get Rid of Mosquitoes Indoors and Out
Follow these tips to keep your summer bite-free and healthy despite the uptick in mosquito-borne diseases
Full StoryEDIBLE GARDENSNatural Ways to Get Rid of Weeds in Your Garden
Use these techniques to help prevent the spread of weeds and to learn about your soil
Full StoryGARDENING AND LANDSCAPING4 Good Ways to Get Rid of Mosquitos in Your Yard
Stay safe from West Nile virus and put an end to irksome itches with these tools and methods for a porch, patio or yard
Full StoryMOST POPULARHow to Get Rid of Those Pesky Summer Fruit Flies
Learn what fruit flies are, how to prevent them and how to get rid of them in your home
Full StoryLIFEHow to Get Rid of Clothes Moths
Found holes in your favorite sweater? Read on to learn if clothes moths are to blame — and what to do about them
Full StoryDECLUTTERING7 Household Items to Get Rid of Right Now
Kick-start your January decluttering by clearing out these things around the house
Full StoryDECLUTTERINGDownsizing Help: How to Get Rid of Your Extra Stuff
Sell, consign, donate? We walk you through the options so you can sail through scaling down
Full StoryMOST POPULARHow to Get Rid of Household Mold
Find out how to work with a pro to stop mold from damaging your house and health — and how to prevent it from forming
Full StoryDECORATING GUIDESLose It: How to Get Rid of Old Light Bulbs
When the light goes out, you'll want to get rid of the bulb safely. Here's how
Full StorySponsored
Fori