Of course my next question is "what kind of linoleum?" My assumption is that the sheet material is a vinyl on a mineral fiber felt backing. If the sheet material is securely bonded to the concrete in all areas, then you can think of the sheet as providing a vapor retarder for your installation. Your sheet flooring will either by an homogenous vinyl or a cushioned rotogravure product. Either can provide an adequate substrate, but check with the flooring manufacturer as to suitability and for adhesive recommendation. If you choose to install over the sheet material, then be aware that you must physically and chemically remove any surface contaminants, and that includes any acrylic dressings or waxes that may have been applied to the flooring surface. Once you are sure they have been removed and you have a clean and dry substrate, then I see little reason why going over the existing sheet material cannot be done. It is how I did such installations over the years and they were all successful.

That's a horse of a different color and requires some investigation and caution, as some vinyl backings contain asbestos. You can have an asbestos abatement company do the work for you or, as a homeowner, you may be able to do the work yourself, but it would need to be done following all rules and work practices in doing that. The tools are basically the same, but isolating the workspace, preventing airborne contamination and protecting your body is a must. Disposing of the waste is a related issue. Have the material tested so you know what you're possibly dealing with. Search "asbestos in the home" for good information.

OMG...this is VERY difficult. I don't know how you (and all the others) did it. I've realized I'm covering way too much surface and need to go much, much smaller. Of course, after I applied PA7 to another large space that I get to remove today. Yaay. So far, The Green Monster is winning this war. I can't seem to rinse off the brick well enough to remove all the PA7 and the paint residue. How did you rinse off the brick well enough and not create a huge puddle on the floor? Did you find any specific brushes/tools to be most beneficial? I've noticed the grout is soft and I have to not use any metal/wire brushes. Nylon only. I'd love any suggestions/advice as to techniques that worked for you. I'm going thru nylon brushes like M&Ms. Just how long did this take you from start to finish? Five years? Eight? I don't know if I can do this...it feels daunting. I'm not sure PeelAway7 is the right product for this. Take a look at the pics below. Fireplace with first coat of PA7: After...still needs more scrubbing and rinsing (w/out flash). This is after 3hrs of scrubbing and 2 coats (two 24hr segments) of PA7. Same w/flash: Got ambitious before I knew what I was in for. I get to remove this section today.

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................