can you post a picture for us to see how wide it is, how many branches you have, what kind of a pot it's in? or at least find some picture that is similar by searching images? if you can move it by van/car (not commercially) I suggest the following: make sure it's totally dry. if you can lift it out of the pot and put it in plastic pot: will be easier to handle. get a conical wire cage (tomatoes), secure around the pot. that should secure the main trunk somewhat from wobbling. cylindrical wire cage might be good too. some breakage of branches will be inevitable: you might want to prune it. use old pantyhose or strips of stretchable fabric (elastic) to wrap around trunks/branches and also around the wire cage: so that the plant does not shift inside the cage, but there is some give when it shakes during transport. do not use regular ropes - they might snap the branches on a bump. break up a large cardboard box flat. crease it so it'll be easy to roll around the plant (or make it rectangular, so it would not roll if put on the side). it will be best if the pot is similar to the width of the plant: so you can put cardboard around the pot, extending to the height of the plant. do not close bottom or top. it'll be easier to lift it if you can grab it by the bottom of the pot - so tape cardboard to the middle of the pot with duct tape. if you can transport it vertically, wedged between other tall boxes - that's great. if not - you can gently put it on the side. and transport it sideways. make sure it does not roll. if it's on the side - some branches might break, if it is not secure in the wire cage. This post was edited by petrushka on Wed, Apr 17, 13 at 10:27

No you're not nuts, but if they've been 10 years they'll probably be pretty big, a real need for a helper, or even 2 on hand with forks to help you. I'm guessing about 20-25" round base of plant with 70+ flowering stems?? I have done this and not lost any of the divisions. Water well for 2 days beforehand, sets the plant up well and also softens the ground. Prepare big deep holes in your new site the day before, you can expect a root ball about 15" bigger than the base of the plant, so double that for the preparation area. Take the opportunity to get a good amount of humous into the new site, water the new site well the day before and again a couple of hours before. The best time to move them is just after the flowers go over and the new leaves are just pushing through. (If there's lots of leaf it's a bit harder to see what you're doing, there's more to get damaged and water loss through the leaf is greater, transpiration.) I guess that would be a month ago, don't worry unduly, the key is the amount of TLC you'll give it after transplanting. Cut all flower stalks and seed pods off. Loosen all round, and get your helpers to assist with the lift. Once the plant is out of the ground, keep going and don't let the roots dry out, hence the advance preparation of the new site(s). You can divide at this time, if you want to(it might be your only option with a 10 year old plant, if you can't get it out the ground in one piece). Wash as much soil off as possible fronm the crown of the plant, so that you can see the roots and where the growing points are coming from. Protect the new white roots, the old black ones are not so relevant. Try to divide into big clumps, (you can go down to single growing points but they are likely have at least 1 blind year without flowers) I find that sections about 6" round will have 4-7 good growing points, and usually carry on flowering as if they hadn't been affected. It's probably easiest to cut the plant in half with a sharp spade initially, once you can get into the crown, it's easier to see logical splits. Divide with a sharp knife...an axe and a hammer...a sharp spade, the plant will tell you what it needs. You can dust the cut surfaces with flowers of sulphur as a precaution against fungal infection, but good clean cuts are quite good at healing themselves. If doing the whole plant, don't worry about washing the roots off etc, just get it back into the soil at the same depth as before, backfill with a good rich mix of your soil and added humous and water well. If splitting, replant the sections with the crown of growing tips about 1" below the surface, if potting any up use good deep pots, water well, but don't leave sitting in water. Leave them in a cool shady place, (I put mine under a hedge) watering them each day for a week or so. Cut off any badly damaged foliage as you would with last years growth, as this is how infections get in. They're bound to wilt a bit for a day or two, keep them shaded, keep them watered without being waterlogged and you should be absolutely fine. My bet is that they'll enjoy the new rich site and that you'll have a fantastic show next year. Cheers Greenmanplants

Helleborus resent being moved and the foliage almost always wilts and flops over on the ground. The stem may have been bruised during the move, which would account for the browning. Hold off on the water, just keep the soil moist and be sure that you have good drainage in the new location, They will not survive in wet, soggy soil. It should resprout new foliage later on, but could be as late as spring, as that is the usual time they produce new foliage. If your soil is acidic, I would add a few tsps. of Dolomitic Lime or superphospate around it to raise the pH, as they appreciate a more alkaline soil. It should be fine. Any setback is just temporary. They are frequently shipped halfway around the world, bareroot and survive! Rb

Try to get someone to help you with the digging out and relocation. Before moving it, give it a good prune to reduce the size and weight of the top.Try to get a good ball of soil to lift with the roots. One way is to dig around approx 12 -18 inches from stem and then try to cut through any bottom roots underneath the soil ball. A sheet of plastic can make a good transport means to slide it into a trailer. When you prepare your new site the supporting rod for the circle may need to be set into the ground with a quick setting concrete. When you lift the root ball into its new home make sure you use a good potting mix for the new roots to grow into. I would also put some additional saturaid into the mix to help maintain water for the new roots. Your potting mix should give another 6 -8 inches to the roots ball and some potting mix in the bottom of the hole as well to aid drainage. Lastly water in your plant and then give it some plant starter to promote the root growth about every two weeks. Good luck.